Antigua Week

After our good night’s rest and boy did we need it.  We - I guess I mean “the boys” gave Companion a good washing – it is amazing how much salt collects on the stainless and fiberglass – we could have a huge mound of it by now! Especially after the sail that we endured … Dale and I did the housekeeping  - we wanted the boat to "shine” for Danylle, then we all enjoyed a much needed afternoon’s nap – it really wears a person down missing a night sleep!  After a couple of quarts of Gatorade, Andy perked up!

Danylle arrived Saturday afternoon right on time – we were all happy to see her… she was ready for a “vacation” – we got off of the dock and motored over to a mooring ball – much better breeze and the “rocking” is very therapeutic.  Jolly Harbor Marina houses a lot of really cool sailboats so we had fun “people watching”. 

Danylle and Andy

Sunday was once again proof, that the world is small …. After reconnecting with my friend on Facebook (and the first employee of the flower shop) – Dawn Van Lannen  - her husband Paul and son Trevor met us at the marina – off we went for a little sail, snorkeled a sunken ship, picnic lunch on Companion and back to harbor to watch the “Bears/Packers game – (you can see they are all decked out in their  “Packer Gear”!)  You know, even not after talking for probably 18 years and life takes its own course - it was just like we had been together yesterday … we had a ball!! And of course we haven’t aged a bit!!!! 

Monday morning we geared up and sailed into the Falmouth Harbor – where the real mega yachts hang out – oh my goodness – you should have seen them – we were moored across the channel from the Maltese Falcon – the most amazing vessel – 3 automatic masts, 88 meters long, and  one of the most expensive sailboats ever built.  The 3 guys jaws dropped to their knees when they saw her  – they enjoyed speculating the costs, upkeep, crew, etc for this beast of a boat …..hard to even imagine. Andy got on the internet and got all the “skinny” for the Maltese Falcon, after he and Zeph weaseled their way on to the secured mega yacht dock…only they could have done that!  Danylle is catching up on her sleep and is now nice and relaxed - put her behind the helm and she is one happy girl!

The Maltese Falcon

Nelson’s Dockyard in English Harbor is a wonderful historic shipyard with a great walking tour, explored that and enjoyed a great happy hour….  next morning tried to sail east but the waves were taking a toll on Companion and crew – so back towards the beach outside of Jolly Harbor – good supper and a nice sunset.  Thursday to Jumpy Bay at Long Island – oh my gosh – you should see that beach – gorgeous – the guys snorkeled to the reef … we should really call them “the great conch hunters” … dove to the sea floor for enough conch for an amazing appetizer – butter lemon sauce sautéed to perfection! (Using Dale’s secret pre-soak – vinegar).  Danylle and Andy brought us “sushi” tools and a recipe book – so with Zeph’s instruction we had a delightful evening of being “foodies!”  Really fun and entertaining!! 

The Great Conch Hunters

Conch Surgery!!

Leaving Jumpy Bay the guys and Danylle hoisted the main halyard – we enjoyed a leisurely sail to Deep Bay – a perfect little lagoon where a sunken ship rests in about 20 feet of water – great home for fish…. the water was perfect – not to cold …. we got there right before lunch – Dale and I strolled the beach – the kids climbed to the highest point – an old fortress and had a photo shoot of their own – back to play in the water – Danylle swam back to the boat and the two guys snorkeled their way ‘home “ – Dale always treats me to a dinghy ride….

Speakin’ of the dinghy – tonight was the night –I drove the dinghy…. after successfully jerking both of us to the floor of the boat in a swift move – completely over-accelerating … yikes – yes, I will learn…..need some practice…ok need a lot of practice!

Now back to Deep Bay – great sunset – just like we planned it for the kids last night on board… homemade pizza with an amazing new crust recipe – and a couple of games of “Oh Hell” …. Andy thinks he is so cool  (because he is) – he was excited to beat not only Dale, me but Danylle, too…. go figure ….

Saturday, lazy sail into the Jolly Harbor – but first the “great conch hunters” got us a couple more for tonight’s supper – we sailed with the jib back to Jolly Harbor –lunch, Dale checked all of out of immigration/customs, showered and had to say “good-bye” to our kids…. gonna miss them.

Just like having Em and Kyle with us – Danylle, Andy and Zeph – it is special treat to be able to share this world with them .. .thanks for making us smile, keep our sense of humor, and enjoy life with us.. . thanks for being who you are!

St. Kitt's and Nevis ... two gems in the Caribbean

As it would be, St. Kitt’s was as special as we thought it would be.  More on that is just a little bit…

But, the little island just south of St. Kitt’s is Nevis – so the boys are easy and up to anything so we sailed to Nevis – Pinney Beach was our destination for a couple of days – great mooring balls.  Our main objective was to actually tour this little gem – we ended up at Golden Rock Inn, one of the most amazing restaurant - hotel -botanical gardens I have ever seen. The owner’s 5^th generation grandfather owned/built the sugar plantation that encompasses the aforementioned.  All of the buildings and foundations are made of the volcanic rock, have been incorporated into one of the most stunning/ breathtaking views/and delicious lunch stops – even had a dip in their pool before completing the rest of the island tour.  

At the Golden Rock Inn - all built by slaves....

As I keep repeating; “the Caribbean Folks” are special – they are kind and considerate and truly want a person to enjoy time on their islands – true with our taxi/tour guide ... Frances answered all questions and was a wealth of information…. dinghying back to the boat for a relaxing evening on Companion – a game or two of Rummikub (Andy was excited because he actually beat Dale – which hardly ever happens!) (Zeph is a new learner to the game – so he needs practice!) and we were out like a light…

the stone walls of Brimstone Fortress

Wednesday was back to St. Kitt’s - a little island history tour we took– Brimstone Fortress – the oldest fort in the Caribbean, which took over 104 years to build, – oh my gosh it was on top of the world (or at least this island) – an amazing and huge fortress – with tons of history – the boys enjoyed climbing all over and thru the buildings and so did we! 

Carib slave built

Rainbows that knock your socks off... we saw both ends hanging in the moutains

Again the taxi/tour guide, Adolphus was also over the top …. he was so proud of his home and the “international, international airport!”  (inside joke…. to long to explain …but maybe sometime when you need a giggle we can go there!) 

One of the other interests for me was to actually see the “green velvet monkeys” – to the locals they are "pests" (fun fact: 36,000 people and 50,000 monkeys) – but I was fascinated – we happened upon a research team from UCLA and The University of Wisconsin – capturing the monkeys for genetic testing – and then releasing them back into the mountains – fascinating work and a chance to see the monkeys up close – they really do have a soft green fur that shimmers in the sunlight …    

You know … this world is really so small – Chuck Novak and Peggy Weymouth from Springfield, IL met us for lunch on Thursday – we were in the Port Zante Marina next door to their cruise ship dock – what a great way to reconnect – can you imagine, going half way across the world for lunch? -  a lot of reminiscing and laughing…. Chuck helped us finance Companion way back when – so it was good to show “the banker” what he dealt with!!!  Life goes by to quick not to take advantage of these kind of opportunities …. Chuck is planning on joining us sometime in March – so there you have it – life is really good – he just retired last week!!

Chuck on Companion... what  a treat!

After a quick decision, we left the marina at 4pm and just “gonna” sail to the end of St Kitt’s and then make a decision – anchor or keep going … need to get to Antigua for sure by Saturday because Danylle is arriving.   So we rounded the island – winds ok – waves not to bad…. go thru the “narrows” which really meant going over shallow water into the Atlantic – (during the Ice Age St. Kitt and Nevis were one island ) … One of the highlights of this sail for the boys was sailing past “Boobie Island” (yes, that its actual name) – you know what kind of comments I got to listen to…. let your imagination wander ….  the wave and winds got a “little more than rough” – the guys sailed thru the night – the moon was so big and full – a giant spotlight in the sky we could see the waves roll across the bow …. what should have taken about 10 hours took 17 hours – whew we were tired when we floated into Antigua – but what a sight we saw…  were treated to amazing turquoise waters, beautiful picturesque homes/resorts and a lagoon that was as smooth as silk…. thanking God again for a safe night’s passage and settled stomachs!

keep forgetting to share - the flowers are magnificent

This Glorious Lily just growing on the side of an obscure path

God is so good for sharing with us!!

A good little nap before we checked into Antigua, delicious dinner – (love the pressure cooker) - a scoop of ice cream and off to bed tonight…. St Kitt’s and Nevis … so glad to have visited you!!  We would all recommend these two little gems for a get away!  Can't wait for Danylle to arrive... counting the hours....

Adventure Changes Course

Following “weather-finder.com” we knew that Friday was the best possible day to leave St. Maarten’s - predictions of 2 to 3 foot waves and wind blowing from the east – not the best scenario - but good enough to go. 

Our intention was to head to Antigua (it was only suppose to take 15-18 hours or so) – midway thru the winds were pushing us towards St. Kitt’s – decision was made – go in that direction – discussion: “the boys will have to meet us in St. Kitts… why not … explore another place… good idea!” Thank goodness for text messaging and satellite phone – easy transition – boys were up for it….flexibility!

Sailing past the Island of St. Eustavia

After we put the mainsail at the second reef, Dale stood at the helm for 7.5 hours, me fetching water, sandwiches, fruit and a coke –large waves and wind gusts - we sailed past Saba Rock, next St. Estantius – which was a beautiful volcanic island – very unusual landscape … another couple of miles and we were protected from the waves and wind by the north end of St. Kitt’s – it was heavenly – what looked like what I imagine Ireland to look like – gorgeous rolling green hills with a “mountain peak” (3,500 feet) – huge fortress on top – just magnificent – we both sighed with “relief” … sailing past (now I could sit at the helm) the little villages to Basseterre, we landed in the Port Zante Marina – huge sigh of relief… easy access from the airport to the marina for the boys. The Assistant harbormaster, Charlie is a delight and is taking very good care of us!

You know, it is a funny thing – experiences more than not usually come with a silver lining – we have meet some really interesting folks along the way and yesterday was no exception – it amazes me that “sailors” share information so freely… and enjoy communing … last night Dale and I went over to “Salaicious” – Janice and Steve’s vessel for homemade pizza on the stove top – it was delicious!!  They have the same Raymarine set-up that we have … so with help from Janice this morning – Dale will be able to create his own “pages” on the chart plotter for the information that he wants – to say the least, he is very excited!!

The “boys” – Andy and Zeph arrived just around 9 pm  – just like it was “planned – after kind of settling in we all slept like babies…. now the fun begins … exploring St. Kitt’s and her waters …(maybe we will get to see some of the green velvet monkeys and the first tye dye factory in the Caribbean!)  And … if all the stars line up and everything works out, we will meet Chuck Novak and Pegi Weymouth here for lunch on Thursday  (how crazy is that?) before we head to Antigua to meet Danylle on Saturday – Friday the winds are to die down to make a good crossing….keeping our finger crossed!!

Getting back to our adventure here … I am really happy to report that I still am enjoying this and did not “puke”….. life is good.

Monday addition:

Today we found internet... we are now at a little beach cafe on Nevis - quite a little island.... short sail from St. Kitt's - lovely - cool breeze ... delicious homemade bread .... Cafe de Art.... good to have the boys!!!  Zeph's first time to see and swim in the turquoise warm water!! 

Capt. Note: Today, tuesday still on Nevis, (moored just off the Four Season Resort), we had lunch in the mountain, at a resort that should be a Botanical Garden. Kim was in awe at the flowers and landscape and the meal was also incredible. We also went by a research group from UCLA and U. of Wisconsin doing genetic studies on the Green Velvet Monkeys that live on the island (another invasive species). Tomorrow back to St. Kitts to explore that island then meet Chuck Novak, we hope, on Thursday, then leave for Antiqua. It was good not to miss St. Kitts nor Nevis because I think these islands are very high on our list  of favorites. Photos from Kim soon!

Night time sailing

YEA … we made it … Thanking God for a safe passage.

A nighttime passage for me – was a “passage” of personal rites...

at least a passage that Dale and I made by ourselves – the experienced captain and the not so experienced first (and only) mate ….

Thursday

6:30 pm the sun dropped as fast as it could into the big blue ocean and dusk prevailed for another 25 minutes or so – turning the sky from a crimson red, to a hazy rose, to the deepest cobalt blue one can imagine – (I actually prayed for a “red sky… sailors delight” and was treated with a special performance of dancing red skies) … then darkness fell … the moon was just a sliver and only stayed with us for about 3 hours – then total blackness –  just about then … millions, and I mean millions of twinkle lights in the sky – oh my goodness – what a treat -  watching them for my first 2 hours watch – mesmerizing – and then the second two hour watch – oh my…. the way they moved across the sky…. they certainly tell a story and paint a picture.

Realizing that I am just a speck on this earth – pretty darn humbling – feeling the apprehension fall away and trust, even more humbling  – I felt safe and taken care of  ….  peaceful on the sea… thankful!

So on that note – the real details:

We actually left Charolette Amalie on Wednesday sailing to St. John’s Lameshur Bay, a beatiful bay on the south side of St. John's  - where we had a delightful evening – getting ourselves ready in the morning to head southeast to St. Marteen’s.

As Dale and I began our sail to St. Marteen’s – apprehensive I was - to say the least… Dale was patient and gave me a good explanation of all of the instruments – (over and over again) but most of all he was cautious – we started out pretty confident and comfortable – winds not to bad – waves okay – as soon as we left the protection of the islands and in open water – the waves grew twice as big – and very close together – making for an extremely choppy ride – about 45 minutes into this – Dale looked at me and together we decided to head back (not a good way to start an overnight sail)  to the BVI’s – Virgin Gorda  Leverick Bay – nice and protected – picked up a mooring ball – checked the wind and weather maps (again) knowing and hoping that Friday ‘s conditions would be better – so off for another restful sleep – woke early, left the harbor before 7am …. arriving in St. Marteen’s this morning (Friday) a little after 9am – a little weary but extremely relieved with the 26 hour marathon.  

Now sitting in Pineapple Pete’s with an ice cold peach mango tea -  will head back to the boat – everything is really salty and damp – so a quick wash down and then a well deserved rest...

k

Captain's note: Kim was a trooper, taking her watches and infrequently waking me with concerns. Jan. 8 marked the 100th day after the release of Companion to our personal use. I have travelled over 2,000 nautical miles, and still seem like I need a great deal more experience, but that will come. Before we left the BVI, kim and I tightened the alternator belts, Kim is great with a hammer as a pry bar. Today, the 9th as I add these notes we are in Phillipsburg, which is where the Cruise Ships come into on Sait Marteen. It is a quanit little town with lots of duty free shops. The beach is beautiful and Kim and I are at the Green House waiting for 4:30 when it is happy hour (2 for 1 drinks), such a sad life we lead?

Dale  

Waiting for the "Weather Window"

Today, the 3rd of January, we sit in the Charlotte Amalie Bay just 100 yards off shore near the twist in the road leading from downtown to the Cruise Ships. There are 3 Cruise Ships in today – Carnival Victory, Caribbean Princess, and Disney Wonder, which are about a quarter of a mile from Companion. We are anchored in 10 feet of water as our anchor chain strains periodically and the wind generator whirls round and round. The winds are strong out of the northeast, and they have been for about a week. We periodically go ashore to check the internet; passageweather.com and windfinder.com to check on the forecast for the Caribbean weather, so we can make a relatively easy passage to Sint Marteen. This is a part of a Cruiser’s life. (Kim is being very patient!!! - I added this note!)

We have met others waiting for the “Weather Window” – In Rio Dulce which is a hurricane hole (a place to wait out the hurricane season), there were many boats waiting till November or beyond to leave for other destinations. Just before we left a group left for Roatan Honduras and we know of at least one vessel in that group that was demasted as the weather turned bad. They had picked a date and left knowing that the weather was not perfect. There were others in Rio Dulce, who had come to wait out the hurricane seasons and may never leave, because of lack of a sea worthy boat, or other reasons. In French Harbor Roatan we (Mike, Max and I) met a couple from Colorado, who had been in the harbor more than 6 months, they said “waiting for a weather window to go to the Panama”. So the “weather window” seems to be this weekend as the winds and waves calm a bit, but the direction of the wind again will not be perfect.

Captin Dale

Note from "the wife:"

The “Weather Window “ – a time of watching and waiting – hoping for the calm… by all “forecasts” starting Thursday is the best bet to make the crossing – a 20 to 22 hour sail – so Dale and I plan on resting well Wednesday night and taking naps Thursday while each take a turn at the helm – readying ourselves for the overnight – actually I am kind of looking forward to the shooting stars and constellations.  Sint Maarten’s from all research, sounds like a lovely little island – we are heading for the Dutch side  (love those folks!)…. then onto St. Bart for a day, St. Kitt and to Antiqua to collect Andy and Zeph  on the 15^th….  Danylle arrives on the 23^rd… we are excited to explore with them!!

In preparation:  An afternoon visit to the local “Turkish” restaurant – for some babaganush….. gotta try it in different countries!!!  yummy...just the right amount of garlic!!  

Updated Itinerary

The latest proposed itinerary is below: We are still in need of crew and swabbie's for some of the dates. Remember Companion has 3 guest/crew staterooms and I have Rum. Most of the runs between islands are about 40 nm or a day sail away (except from Grenada to Bonaire). Again these dates are tentitive, but while Kim and I have email get on the internet and find a flight - email us and buy sunscreen! 

DATE                   LOCATION: ISLAND                                  CREW COMING

Dec 15  to 31      Tortolla and St. John's                                Emily / Kyle

Jan 7 to 15          Sail from St. Thomas to Antiqua

                             St. Marteen and St. Bart

Jan 15 to 30        Antiqua                                                       Danylle/Andy and 
                                                                                                 Portland Friends

Feb 1 to 12          Guadeloupe or Antigua                              Laura & Brian Alonso and
                                                                                               Carol & Steve Wallace

Feb 15 to Mar 10 Guadeloupe/Dominica/Martinique

Mar 12 to 30         Martinique or St. Lucia                               Chuck Novak

Apr 1 to May 10      St. Vincent - Grenadines and Grenada

May 10 to 25       Sail to Bonaire        
May 25 to Jun1  Sail to Curacao Island 
                                   Companion rests there for the hurricane season

Christmas week…..

How we are blessed – Christmas Eve and our sweet Emily arrived with Kyle, Sandy and Bryce (Kyle’s mom and brother) … we were all ready for them – a clean boat and a full hamper so to speak – a few of our all time holiday favorites - comfort food (traditional "HolidayChicken WIngs" - yes, Scotty we are thinking about you...)  feeling the need to hold on to some of the Oldis traditions.

Dale and I welcomed our “family” aboard and let them settle in – off to the pool for a quick dip at the Yacht Haven Grand Marina and then to dinner at the “Fat Turtle”  - a fun little outside café and bar – a different kind of Christmas Feast – they had traveled over 20 hours to get to us – so off to bed with “visions of sugar plums dancing in their heads!!” 

Christmas morning awoke to Santa’s stockings filled  (It is a wonder that “he” can find us everywhere) and a festive little breakfast of French Toast – after we tore thru the stockings off we sailed to St. John’s  - prepped Christmas dinner and finished the evening with the Christmas Story of Jesus’ birth – by candlelight and starlight.   (Dale did use his headlamp to read) – We are thankful for all.

Thanks to Paula for sending us our Christmas tree

"Little Miss Emily Long Stocking" 

Two great days of swimming, hiking and snorkeling in the Francis Bay –(toured the historic sugar plantation) Day Four took us  on a little side trip to the BVI’s Norman Island and the Willie T’s -  (everyone needs to go there at least once in their life... the Margarita machine was working overtime!!) ….. Back to St John’ s in the Great Lameshure Bay, where the winds were picking up considerably – we had a mooring ball so we were as safe as can be – took more hikes and the kids, Dale and Sandy snorkeled the rock walls and outcroppings – amazing fish and coral.  During the evenings – “Oh Hell”  - was played – my, how Bryce got competitive– he swears next time he will beat the socks off of Dale!!!!  (I can only hope!! – We do love that card game!)  Sandy, Kyle and Em held their own!!!

Captain Kyle and Mom (Sandy) at the helm....

Bryce and Dale enjoying the sunset and dinner before "the competition" begins!

Back to St. Thomas we headed for the “duty free shopping” or “looking” as the case was – enjoying all the city sights – secured Mr. Austin Duncan for a half a day tour of the island – it was great to see where we had sailed from the mountain tops – at least the “mountain top” of this little island – not exactly like the mountains the kids are use to…. "Duncan" was a great ambassador for the Virgin Islands – one more sighting:  Vice President Joe Biden and his entourage were running on the beachfront sidewalk in front of us in the harbor acouple of the mornings – glad he can get out, relax and see what us “little people” are doing!!

Touring St. Thomas

Em and Kyle walking on the Sapphire Beach....

Yes, the week was great and went by way to fast – as always it is good to have company … sad to see them leave but looking forward to the next time they can visit.  (Spring would be nice!!)

Dale and Em - just a moment ... on the port bow of Companion

New Year’s Eve will be spent quietly on the boat (after the quick trip into town for the internet café) – we will reflect on what this year has meant to us – so many fabulous memories – Danylle and Andy’s wedding, Emily’s new job, Dale’s dream a reality and me – thankfully, getting to enjoy it all.  Bring it on – 2011!!

The week went by to fast...

k