Bonaire was exactly what we needed... a really great memory …one to file in our memory banks for when we get old and grayer. The relaxed pace, wonderful local folks, great food, fabulous snorkeling, and again warm, warm water so blue … we could and did just sit on the back deck and stare out to the sea.

Waving farewell to Ben and Nanni at 7:30 am - as we took our last little cruise around the Marine Park Bay … we left for Curacao.

Nanni and Ben on the Dual Dragons – we will see them again!

Only 38 miles as the crows flies – so not so long – we planned for 8 hours and made it in 7.5 – mainly motor sailing as the winds have started to die down – which is what usually happens here.

We were cruising along the coast line – enjoying the beautiful beaches and daydreaming (ok only I was daydreaming) about the resorts (that most likely had bathtubs!)  The architecture of the resorts and homes have a “European flair with a Caribbean flavor” – especially dramatic from the water side with all of the great tropical colors….

We were headed to Willemstad , the Curacao Marine Service Company – the plan was that we would have the boat hauled out of the water till we returned in the late fall – this has been the plan since November.  This spot is a great “hurricane hole” -  meaning hurricanes don’t happen here so the boat is safe and sound.  Leaving the “ocean” and sailing into a huge lagoon –  the port authorities granting us permission to go past the water gate/walking bridge so we could proceed up to lagoon – was a little challenging  – we had to be patient as we tried to call the bridge tender on VHS channel 16 only to learn that 12 was their call….

Dale cruised right the gate!

 So we learn something everyday….. I think both Dale and I got a little shock …. This lagoon  is not pretty – we were now in an industrial park of water – ugh – double ugh….As we approached into the marina area –  a gal calls out from her boat, The Denali Rose - later to find out this gal’s name is “Fred” – she informed us not to use the VHS to call the marina but actually call them – so they could assist us - as it seems the boats were packed in like sardines …..  After tying to the dock, Dale doing the usual paperwork – the ladies washroom was the next logical spot for me.  Over hearing conversation … “the 46” Leopard could not get taken out of the water… blah blah blah … and remember the 38” leopard they left for another marina as they couldn’t get taken out either … double blah” ….  I really couldn’t believe my ears – (moral of this story… the ladies washroom is a buzz with information) … reporting my findings to Dale – off to the office he went – confirmation that this was true – totally blew us away – after 7 months and 4200 miles for Dale – how could they not know this…that their lift pads are not the right size for Leopards - what are our options – how bad do we need to take the boat out?  How long can we keep the boat in this water?  Is Panama really that far away – yes was that answer …. A sleepless night – we asked the manager for a backup plan – yes they would try on Monday morning (this was Saturday) to see if they could readjust the pads and if not, could we stay in the marina in the water till we return.  

Not what Dale wanted to hear but we were safe and together and really/truly that is all that matters. We had still to go and declare to customs and immigrations that we had arrived – so we set out in the dinghy … a 45 minute trip to do both- Dale went in to both of the buildings – noticing that the sea walls were dirty with  oil I stayed in the dinghy – held us off the wall with our oar – we knew we had a little grime on the lines – but when we got back into the marina and was going to pull up the dinghy on our davits – the sides were covered – in some places 1” think of oil and tar…our main thought – was still how bad could these waters be from just outside the pristine water of the sea….gross is the only word ... To say the least -  it took over 2 hours and possibly closer to 3 to scrape, degrease with gasoline, using another degreaser, soap and water  - the dinghy was saved – we were frustrated because we had a lot of chores on our list, limited time, hot and sunburned and hungry if I remember clearly…..as we cleaned up or mess  - we thought of the poor birds, seals and marine life that were affected by the oil spills in Louisiana – we just couldn’t imagined how they got that gunk off of those living creatures.

Getting a grip of ourselves – lunch figured out – we started cleaning and readying the boat for wherever she was going… it was the best thing to do – loads of pent up energy to be used ….Dale worked on fine tuning the boat, folding the main sail, cleaning out of the front lockers – drying the lines, scrubbing the entire boat – I on the other hand had the spray bleach bottle and set to work … walls, ceilings, floors – nothing untouched.  All of our clothes packed in airtight boxes and our leftover food supplies sorted thru …. Two exhausting days – and we still had to wait for Monday morning….

Dale knows how to use the scrub brush

Without going on forever….the “ladies of the washroom” were very supportive of the haul out situation – so the marina was a buzz – watching, checking on us and hoping that it would work for us.   The crew that handles the haul out made a plan with Dale – changed the configuration of the pads – this was one giant truck and an extra giant trailer that picks up boats –

 they worked almost 2 hours – inch by inch they moved the trailer and to no avail – the pads would not support Companion … my heart went out for Dale at that moment – Companion needs a rest and so does her Captain ….

                                                       
A disappointed Captain stands by and waits

They helped us move Companion over to the dock … now for the new plan …. What to do ….. Back and forth to the office… find a boat “care giver” ….. etc etc…. A few of the marina neighbors came over to check on us….. and thank goodness “Fred” invited us for a hamburger – we needed some comfort and food was the best solution… besides her car had A/C.

Well – resigned to the fact that Dale might have to come back earlier than we expected – it is ok.  Meeting “Fred” and her husband, Jack is the bonus – they have been cruising the Caribbean for 8 years and know a ton of information – they gave us some advice on boat maintenance …. And besides that, they are bringing their boat to Anacortes – you never know … we might make part of the journey with them …. We have to look at the bright spots …. Oh yes … their main advice was … “nothing is for sure... it is a boat … you gotta go with the wind and wherever it takes you” …. So for now we are satisfied – Companion is in good hands - will have her repairs made, they will protect her by “bagging” her propellers so barnacles can’t eat her, and wash her down once a week – it is ok.

Today (Tuesday) is our last day – I am writing this entry at 3:30 am – I thought it would be important for me to finish this chapter before we start with our homebound ones…. Not being able to sleep - I am sure Dale is also making a mental list of what else needs to be finished up ….The haul out is a one- time experience .. Not really one I care to remember – but it is part of the journey … so let me end with this…

My “time” on Companion … has been good.  I love spending time with Dale and "living his dream" – The whole boating experience challenged me beyond words, and maybe sometimes my words were harsh (only Dale really heard those words – poor guy) , but after usually calming down ...  “let’s give her a whirl” was my answer – my capabilities improved as we made southern progress thru the islands ( I think I earned "The Most Improved Player Award!" - all those years of Dale's coaching really rubbed off on me),my  confidence in Dale knowledge and the fact that I needed to trust that Companion is a good and seaworty grew,   meeting people and making friends has always come easy – some of my favorite experiences besides touring the islands and finding awesome food venues  … BUT …. Sharing Companion with all “four of our kids” -Danylle and Andy, Emily and Kyle, Dale’s dad, Mike, Max, Sandy and Bryce, Zeph, Laura and Brian, Carol and Steve, Amy, Chuck, Anthony and Angelo was a joy. … I thank you for joining us on the “dream journey” of this sailor and his first mate.  

We are looking forward to what the summer brings:  the joy-filled wedding celebration, hanging out with the folks we love, dreaming about when we can get Companion to Puget Sound, remembering our travels and adventures of the last 7 months and lastly what is most important to me ….. 

Thanking God for a safe journey.  Life is good …………………  it is now 5:20 am and time to sleep!

I will be remembering all of the wonderful adventures in the Caribbean!

Our Dutch Friends!!!

As you know from some of our first blogs that the “Dutchmen” – Ben and Nannie are our favorite sailors that we meet first in Belize, then again in Guatemala and had planned on meeting them in the Caribbean someplace … planned yes – but really could not predict exactly where because they had guests , we also – the weather played a huge factor in our decision making and of course fate ….

The internet is helpful as we have been able to keep in touch …. but we missed each other by a day in the Tobago Cays, were in different bays at Union Island on the same day and then we received an email from Ben … “Do NOT leave Bonaire! *** ** just wait!  We will be there! Slow down!!!"

We arrived last week to Bonaire  so ...... Dale and I watched/waited for a couple of days hoping that they would arrive sooner than later – that is when we decided to take the road trip (“a watched pot never boils!”) …. Of course while we were having our "Jive Dive" lunch they sailed into the marine park (making it in four days/nights from Martinque …. they wanted to make sure that we got to see each other .... before we headed home)

Only 5 boat moorings away …. What a great reunion ....  much laughing and “sailor talk” – we so enjoy them!

Ben is so generous with his time and knowledge –  already has spent two days on board Companion helping and teaching Dale how to change the oil, filters, engine tuning, battery charging, tightening the shrouds, lubricating the winches and more – everything Dale needs to do before we have the boat hauled out and ready for the next sailing season.

Now Nannie and I on the other hand – had a wonderful day – no real work for us … she showed me the good snorkeling areas, “girl talk” in the shade on their Catamaran  - her English is really very good and fun for me when she says … “In English … how do you say it?” –  a good game of charades!!  She is a real character!

Dinner on board Companion

They are on their seventh year of sailing (from Holland) – heading thru the Panama Canal in the fall, over to Hawaii and then up to Alaska, Canada and down to Seattle for an extended stay in 2012 – lucky for us that they will be in our "neighborhood!"  Nannie wants to see the "wild west" - "just like in the movies!"   Another adventures begins!!

Blissfully Bonaire

Finding the right words to express the beauty that surrounds us – is difficult.   No way to really show you –  pictures do not do Bonaire justice.  Turquoise water that is so clean, clear, warm … we just slip off the aft step, swim under the hull and there we have it – the most serene underwater view!  The sun casts her rays on the brain coral and the little sprouts of fantail coral that are just starting …. the sea cucumbers are waving with the current.  The flora of the Caribbean sea floor is reviving … thankfully the local Bonairians realize this and the Marine Park is proactive. 

 Brain Coral attached to our mooring

Just snorkeling along the shore line – after 30 yards off the hull of Companion – Angel fish  - black with yellow, white with black tails and fins, black with neon blue pock a dots, Puffer fish, Parrot fish (at least 5 pounds and 20” long) in shades of turquoise, pink, lavender (can’t help but thInk that they just had their makeup applied as their “eye shadow and lipstick” are perfect) … markings on their tail – oranges, greens, and shades of blue … Flounders that look little  floor mats, Squids that look you right in the eye, millions of little minnows that swim in sycronization; as if they had practiced time and time again, Blue Tang (perwinkle in color) fish that glow, Trumpeters that wiggle thru the water …. I could go on and on … to say the least both Dale and I have been spending a lot of time with our backs to the sun, fins gently moving us along … peaceful …

A Blue Tang

Parrot Fish nibbling her dinner

Companion is moored (as all boats along Bonaire’s inner coast are) facing Kralendijk - one of the three villages of Bonaire… it is a active town with fantastic restaurants, local little food shacks and bars, good fruit and veggie market plus a “Budget Marine” store that Dale has frequented… We just dinghy over, have a look around – see what everyone is up to and then dinghy back to our little water home!!  “Norca’s” for Thai and Indonesian food - Dale had a creole goat stew, “Paradise Moon” that had the most delicious pumpkin soup ever (had it twice!), “It Rains Fishes” an upscale and romantic dinner …. And of course Companion’s galley  has produced a few good meals, too!  Eating is our entertainment for the evenings in between rummikub games.

Rented a car for a day to tour the whole island – 20 miles by about 8 miles at the largest section – only takes about four hours of driving and stopping plus a lunch… so as we started out ... about five miles from town , we heard a little pop - then nothing – no engine, no moving, no nothing… called the rental place and they came to our rescue with a new pick-up truck… how fun for us…. back on the road again - we head north to find the flamingos,

east to see the wild donkeys,

the salt flats and more flamingos,

south to see the lagoon with a hundred of wind surfers, and back north into town and a little grocery shopping in a regular supermarket (looking for toilet paper, paper towels and cleaning supplies – some things never change!) ….  At the wind surfing lagoon we had a delicious lunch at the “Jive Dive” shop – plus a couple of cold ones to wash it down …..

blissfully perfect!  Bonaire is one of the higlights for us!



Getting to 12 degrees North

Easter Sunday we celebrated at the St. Joseph of the Worker Parish near Rodney Bay, St. Lucia:  after walking about a mile and a half (all the locals said … “There are many churches just keep going around the corner, you will find one”) we heard the music, followed some families all dressed to the nines, and made our way….. steel drums and electric piano going to town –it was glorious!   Dale figured over 700 folks gathered in this tiny village in this large church to celebrate together – we felt the “love!”  (Especially during the sign of peace!)

We spent the day kind of relaxing on the boat but with a little bit of a mission – “make her sparkle” – we had two gentlemen arriving – Anthony Vigliotta on Monday and Angelo Castello on Tuesday.  So polished all the stainless on the deck – gave her a bath with fresh water and soap – got the laundry ready for the local lady – and then just kind of chilled ….

Anthony arrived just like clockwork on Monday –gave him the tour of our home and his for the next 10 days and let him get settled in – out to dinner at a great little Thai restaurant right in the marina and then “good night” – he had traveled all night and needed to recoup.  We had a big day planned – provision for the voyage and ready ourselves to welcome Angelo on board on Tuesday.

Never having met Angelo before – we did what every American would do – “Google him” – we needed to know who we were looking for – right?  So Like Anthony – Angelo arrived exactly when we anticipated - and made himself right at home …. This is the way Dale and I like our guests/crew to feel.  Dale gave the guys a tour of the boat – and how it works – which was good as we had planned on leaving St. Lucia in the morning to sail to Bonaire (a 442 nautical mile sail) … Dinner at the little pizza bistro – we all were ready to rest and get ourselves mentally prepared for the next few days. Nonstop sailing till we arrived – a lot for me to even think about.  We thought a 4 day/3 night sail but whatever it takes is what it is.

Wednesday morning – gray overcast - we ran to the marina showers – one good last long hot shower before we head out… it began to rain – then poured and poured and poured.  We checked the website “weather passage” to check the winds and waves… looked like we could “dodge” some of the weather that day and the rest of the week looked just “ok” …. Captain Dale gave the “order” to shove off while the rain had stopped and the skies looked blue in the south ….. We fueled up and left Rodney Bay about 10:30 am ….. Angelo and Anthony were ready for the “mission” …. Thank goodness Dale had “help” … as I might require motion sickness medicine!! (Thanks Dr. Doug and Nurse Nancy for the recommendation!)

Sailing out of Rodney Bay or any bay for that matter, is somewhat bittersweet – another little milestone in the journey of Companion in getting her and us “home.”   Of course like most of our sailing adventures – nightfall comes and then the weather changes….the guys took shifts to hold the helm steady and stay on course …. At least we were heading in the right direction and only needed one “tack” to recover – but it was better to do that then to fight the waves all night… To say the least we had a long night of rain, wind and waves ….. About 125 miles done in that 24 hour period – only another 320 or so to go… the guys rested when they could – ate when hungry and were always ready to help the other.   I spent the days and nights on the salon couch – not feeling too great but aware of what was happening around me. 

ugh

Day two and three – weather on and off – Night two not as rough as night one, Night three – delightful, the guys could use the autopilot and watch the stars as they sailed to the south!  Day four – we could feel that we were making progress but not fast enough – we would not make Bonaire by nightfall – so we slowed down a little bit … once again the waves decided to change direction and the wind kicked up – sailed with only the jib up …… Shift one – Angelo from 7pm – 11pm, Shift two – Anthony 11pm – 2am and Dale from 2am to 6am…..these guys were like clockwork for four nights…hard, exhausting work but also a sense of accomplishment -   on the dawn of day 4 – the guys were all looking for the “glow” of the Bonaire – they could see it out about 40 miles from shore – so the end of this journey was in view!!!!

Captain and His Trusty Crew!!

About 6:00 in the morning we came into full view of Bonaire – all four of us on deck –ready to “get there”… the skies turning from a soft gray morning sky to soft pink … about that moment – Anthony has his camera ready to catch the dawn’s colors, the lighthouse at the most southern tip of the island and then says “Look over port side!”  The most amazing site – a flock of pink flamingos just “sailing” past us – a greeting for us – “Welcome to Bonaire!”  Nothing could have been more perfect.  Just a little over 90 straight sailing hours we arrived in the Marine Park Harbor – what a site to see – the MOST pristine waters yet …..

The “A Team” as they got to be known on Companion were great assets to this passage.

Anthony and Angelo

(Note: I will add better photos of The "A" Team when I have better internet connections)

Anthony – took charge of the galley (with a little input from me!) – Delicious meals every night – even as Companion was bobbin’ and bouncin’ along. Also a weather nut – he watched the clouds like a hawk and could help determine the speed and direction of the storms… an amazing gift. Plus I think he really did like the challenge of the helm!

Angelo had sailed several times in the Caribbean and was eager to sit at the helm – Sailor talk came easily to him and I think he must have been a sailor in his “past life” – very comfortable in that role!! His easy and quiet ways made for a very calm and relaxed boat!!

You know, this is a chance we take and actually Dale and I take it often – asking people to come with us on these adventures; not really knowing them that well BUT just have a feeling that everything will work out… it was amazing Angelo and Anthony felt like “old” friends right from the beginning (both Italian after all!) … made for a wonderful passage! Thank you gentlemen – for being great mates! We look forward to your return to Companion.

Sorry to see Angelo andAnthony leave Companion

With the 450 nautical miles challenge complete … a relief for us ...Thanks to Angelo and Anthony for their help - we have just another 35 miles to go to Curacao …. Companion will get her rest for the "season" and so will her Captain!