#2 Update ...... from the wife

Captain Dale and Crew just reported in - a nice treat for me on a rainy Seattle afternoon - 


Companion has  already sailed over 1200 nautical miles in the last 3 weeks.  They are about a 20 hour sail from the pennisula that divides Haiti and the Dominican Republic.  They have been sailing since Wednesday - so I am sure they are ready to put an anchor down and get a little rest in the DR.  A part broke that controls the main sail so the guys are motoring with the jib up, so it is slow going.  They will continue sailing with the jib till Companion reaches Tortola - there will be a marina there that can fix it.  The guys have put all of their engineering skills to task - but with limited tools and parts they will be patient and just plug along.


I am now planning on meeting them on Monday, Dec 6 in Ponce, Puerto Rico ... "Flexibility" is my middle name. And thank goodness for great family and friends who provide me shelter and food.


  

THE JOURNEY HAS BEGUN 11/17/10

Sail Date #11 of the Sailing Vessel Companion on it’s journey to see new worlds, and get this boat to LaConner. It is 6:30 AM Central Time, but I think we are now on Eastern Time, but time doesn’t matter as much as distance. We are currently about 90 nautical miles from our waypoint - a spot on a chart that we hope to get to. And as Max at the helm stares at the chartplotter and wonders how much VMG, Velocity Made Good that we are making on this tack. He also has a large tanker overlaid on the chartplotter as a target showing it is only a nautical mile away, but moving away at a right angle. I am typing while standing at the Control Panel letting my legs move to the oscillation of the boat.

Two days ago I wrote: It is day 9 of our voyage. We started with a small step of motoring down the Rio Dulce to Texan Bay about 12 Nautical miles away from Rio Dulce, for your information a Nautical Mile is 1.15 miles and equals one minute of latitude on the line of longitude. Monday the eighth we checked out of Guatemala in Livingston, and then it was our first night sail on Companion to Utila Honduras. Mainly motoring because the winds were so light, but the ocean swells were about 3 feet about 50 yards apart. When my watch started at 7 pm, then we entered what I thought was a little squall. Winds picked up and seas became confused, wind from the squall mixing with sea swells produced a very rough sea, but we put up the jib to help stabilize the boat. The boat started slapping down hard with each wave and some banging of the sea under the bridgedeck. To say the least an uncomfortable ride. At the end of my watch at 11:00 Max took over, but not much had changed. We still had weird seas with 17-20 knots of wind, which changed as the squall moved, plus we had some ship traffic into and out of the Port of Cortez. The radar and AIS identified most of these. Well to say the least it was a long night. We arrived at Utila, an Island off Honduras, at about 1 PM and checked in with immigrations. Five dollars per person and a ten-dollar fee to the Port Captain, who used an old manual typewriter to fill out his form and we were cleared into Honduras with a 3 month visa. After a burger in town it was early to bed.

The next day, we sailed to Roatan, another island off of Honduras; these islands are called the Gulf Islands, for they are in the Gulf of Honduras. After about 2 hours the wind died, and after I waited an hour hoping they would build, we turned the motor on, using one motor at a time to save fuel. After a quick buzz around Coxen Bay, the main town near the airport, and not finding any yachts anchored we headed the 6 knots to French Harbour, which has more Shrimping Boats than any other port in the Caribbean.  Anchored near a catamaran, where the couple from Colorado has been waiting 6 months for a weather window to Panama (6 months!). Checking out of Honduras, Immigrations took 2 days (but that’s another story) and on Nov. 13 we had our weather window to Jamaica (Really - we checked some satellite weather and an email from Emily and the consensus was “okay let’s go”.

We have been on a close haul tack from Nov. 13 at 6 AM to today Nov. 17. We have sailed (no motors about 45% of the time, with speeds to 8.8 knots, with apparent winds of 12 – 21 knots) Hybrid sailed (one motor on so we can stay closer to the winds about 40% of the time) and have motored (mainly one engine on 15% of the time.).

Night sailing has been interesting. I have the first watch from about 6 PM to 11:00 PM and always something different happens. First night a squall of 27 knots winds hit us, where we had to double reef the single reefed main. Max did a great job of lowing the main in those conditions. Second night another squall, and third some weird winds, but later stars were amazing. And last night a big pinkish, purplish blob tried to eat the vessel. Well not literally, but storms show up on the radar as these vivid, animated images and last night there was a growing blob with fire (lightning) in it’s fists. I tried to maneuver around it, but it found us. So again all hands on deck (I want to make sure my crew gets the full experience), we managed to sail through a smaller part of the blob and felt some winds from this storm. But no lightning hit us, nor winds blew us down so all is well, still trying to make VMG. (Today on NOAA site, that purple blob might of been the start of a small depression above Honduras)

         We do know the RUM will taste great in Jamaica! And it does, we arrived in Montego Bay at 10:00 AM Eastern Time. Yesterday, late afternoon, we hit another squall which topped out at 38 knot winds and very large ocean swells, but SV Companion weathered that storm well. Well I think it is time for a Red Stripe, I already had my hour shower.

We will be in Jamaica for about 5 days.

Captain Dale

Some stats for the voyage - French Harbour, Honduras to Montego Bay, Jamaica 510 nautical mile as crow flies, We traveled 585 nm, in 5 days 5 hours and 40 minutes, We averaged 4.66 knots and a little over 110 nautical miles a day, Winds were from 6 to 38 knots, waves from 2 feet to ocean swells of 8 to 10 feet. All sailing was close haul between 40˚ to 70˚ to the apparent winds with a top speed a near 9 knots. Max caught 3 small tuna and a 35 lb Wahoo which has fed us for 3 meals and we have 5 more in the freezer. 

So if this doesn't sound like fun I don't know what does, so make a point of joining us!!

Update ... from the wife

Nov 6 - Captain Dale, Captain Mike and Max started their voyage - sailing from Guatemala to the Isle of Roatan was little over 30 hours - they had some “wave” action and were tired when they arrived - but happy to have “officially” started.  The guys rested for a couple of days - provisioned and on Nov 13 headed toward Jamaica, knowing that it might take 7 days or so.  I just got a “text” this afternoon and they are over half way there and doing great … especially since Max got his first big “catch” - a 30 +lb Wahoo - so a great dinner and “meat” in the freezer.  That makes all the “crew” content!

Capt. Mike is in “charge” of keeping the "wives" updated - so we have gotten a few texts via satellite phone - just knowing that they are safe makes "happy wives!"  Glori and I are enjoying sharing this adventure together.

Mike reported that the winds are favorable for good sailing and I can only imagine that Dale is enjoying that - speculating that the motor is not running constantly and they are conserving diesel.  Plus the lack of motor noise is pleasant.

As far as what I have been up to - November 3 - I stayed in a cute little hotel in San Pedro Sula - being the only non Spanish speaking person there - (I have vowed to learn the language - got a beginning Spanish tape!) I just “holed” up in my room, went to the airport early and caught the first flight to Dallas - Paula was waiting for me!!!  Enjoyed a few days in Shreveport, regrouped and headed up to the northwest - staying with Glori  - my heart was yearning to see “our girls” - found a last minute “deal” to LA - called Em at 6 am on Thursday to see if she wanted to go surprise Danylle on Friday morning - Andy was “in” on the surprise - I got such a kick seeing Danylle’s expression as she walked into their “place”, and there we were….I love being the “surpriser!”  We had a great 32 hours in LA - back to Seattle - up to Anacortes to retrieve my car,  back to Seattle and 30 hours later relaxing in Bainbridge with Laura and Brian. 

Dale is planning on “calling” me tomorrow - a short conversation which will be okay - just gives us confirmation that all is well.

I am really proud of Dale as he planned, organized and worked really hard for the last 6 months preparing himself as well as Companion for this voyage.  When I left him on November 3 he was calm, anxious yet peaceful - did my heart good to see him in his element and fulfilling his dream!!

Life is really good.

k

Off the Docks!

Today, we let go of the lines at RAM Marina, fueled (71 gallons of diesel, at about $3.20 a gallon) and anchored. It feels good away from the dock. I did take a shower, just before we left, don’t want to use our precious water for that.  Went to a forum on the Bay Islands, Honduras, our next port of entry, and the trip to Panama. Picked up a Honduran flag at the swap gathering as Mike and Max did some final provisioning. Now, it is growing dark and Max is in the kitchen preparing some creation.

Below is a picture of the solar/wind mount and equipment. The solar panels sit on the horizontal crossbars.

Hopefully, I can update this blog next time I have internet.

A Typical Day in the Rio Dulce, Guatemala

It has been a month since we have been at Rio Dulce and some days have been extremely busy and others very slow.

At about 6 AM we wake, which is okay because we went to bed by 9 PM (Sailors Midnight). Hot water is on, and poured into Starbuck’s French Press. Most days, Max and Dale are off to the shower, often one of many showers for the day. At 7:30, the Rio Dulce Cruiser’s Net (a VHF broadcast on Channel 69) starts to fill our day with the days events: Calls for Emergency Traffic, weather, Restaurant specials and prices for the day always with a reminder that HAPPY HOUR starts at 1 PM, New Arrivals or boats leaving, Boat to Boat contacts, Information offered or needed, Treasures of the Bilge: buy- sell - or trade. This lasts about 20 minutes.

After breakfast, we often waited for Dennis, our solar/wind generator mount man. We met him our second day at RAM Marina, where he designed an interesting mount for the solar and wind. While Chris, the electronic and installation guy, we saw for 3 days straight; Dennis would periodically appear, by land or sea with news of his difficult time getting materials or to measure again. The other mornings would be spent cleaning, polishing, pulling wires, installing some equipment (inverter, salt-water pump, motor mount), or just reorganizing things.

After a lunch that often included guacamole, Kim is getting very good at preparing it, we would go to the pool at the hotel nest to the nearby marina, and read, or just sit on the boat and read. Periodically, we would check emails, weather, and facebook.  Kim would do laundry about once a week, which took most of the day because the dryer at the Marina is almost worthless (and the humidity here doesn’t help). Max and Kim or often just Max would go into town to get fresh vegetables and sometimes shrimp.

We know when it is 4:30, because the white ibis return to an island in the river just about a block from the boat. They return in groups of 10 to 30 and by 5 PM the three trees on the island are covered with thousands of white spots, almost like a Kimberly decorated Christmas tree. For dinner Max would stir-fry some vegetables with an experimental sauce that Kim and him would talk about and serve it over rice, or spaghetti.  Most meals are great success. Then some more internet, reading, or a few games of Rummikub, while other nights, we’d eat at one of the many restaurants. So that’s been our days.

But yesterday was one of the busy days, because our solar/wind generator mount arrived. I now understand why it took so long, because it isn’t a mount; it’s a piece of ART (we hope functional art). And today Nov. 3, Kim and Max headed for San Pedro, Honduras to pick up Mike and leave Kim at a hotel because she flies out tomorrow. 

Overwelmed and Overserved Oct 25

Well, we decided to get out of the Marina and Rio Dulce on Monday and see some of the sites. Max convinced us to travel like college kids, so we walked to the entrance of RAM Marina and flagged down a minibus; it was a beat up 12-passenger van with luggage rack on top, and safety poles inside to hang onto. We started with about 15 people but by the time we reach Morales we numbered 23 inside 3 hanging outside from the open side door, with 1 on top. We paid Gringo price, which was 10Q or $1.25 for that leg of the trip.  Kim enjoyed the countryside, with rolling hills, lots of farms and ranches with cattle. From Morales another minibus, but Kim and I got the honor seats, up front with the driver, which can be a little scary because there you actually see how close to death you come each time they pass the large trucks with little regard for oncoming traffic.

An hour and a half, we arrived at Quirigua, (a Mayan Ruin opened in 1987) City of Stelae pronounced “KittyWa.” This site is said to be the best for the carved stelaes, (which it was) fifteen to twenty foot massive stones carved pillars, with calendars, stories and faces on 4 sides, dating between 730 -800 ad. There were about 15 of these stone monuments each under a thatched canopy for protection. These carvings, which depict eight different rulers and describe their reign, are situated in an open plaza, which leads to the Acropolis with a Game Ball Plaza and quarters for the rulers. The carvings were overwhelming with the detail and size of them.

After two and a half hours at the site, which we shared with about ten tourists, we boarded a bus to the nearby town for lunch. After lunch it was back on a big bus that was going toward Rio Dulce. This bus took a little longer, not because the driver was safer, he wasn’t. Kim was amazed he could drive at all considering the cataracts that he obviously had. But he took a 45-minute break half way to Rio Dulce. I am sure he was a “union driver.”

When we got back to Companion – we got a big “wave” from Ben and Nonnie  (they came back up the river because of Richard) and quickly took our dinghy over to Dual Dragons.  We helped them take some of the “load off” their boat – consuming their  Victoria’s. (Guatemalan beer) A few hours later and a lot of talk about the boating life philosophy and different anchorages, we left their boat feeling really good but nostalgic as we knew that they were leaving again in the morning.  Hope Ben’s head didn’t hurt as bad as mine, just a little over-served! (just me and Max – not Kim)  Thankfully we do not do this often!

All in all it was a really great day and felt great not to be tearing the boat apart, waiting for workmen, scrubbing, or cleaning.  That can wait for tomorrow.

Dale

Going to the Market

“To the market we shall go”… Max has become my personal dinghy chauffer – we have it down pat – especially after the first docking where he saved my butt as I slipped into the water – my foot didn’t hit the dock just ended up in the drink… and all he said was “Hold on Aunt Kim – I will get you.” – which he did…. what a gentleman!!! 

We go to market almost daily– which is the main street in Fronteras – it is filled with loads of local people selling their wares… fruit, vegetables, tortas, plastic containers of every color and size – the Mayan people are beautiful with their colorful fabrics, larger than life cowboy hats, and their smiles.  We are getting to recognize some of the faces, which is lovely.

Today Max and I went to get our supper items and extra provisions – we wanted to see how much we could buy for 100 quetzals ($12.50) – so to our favorite veg market – 4 avocadoes, 6 tomatoes, 1 lb of potatoes, 1 med cabbage, 5 beets, 1 lb. of dried black beans, 3 sweet peppers, 1 cucumber = 20 quetzals ($2.50)…. next stop 21 tortes = 8 quetzals ($1) – you should have seen the little old woman who sold us them – they bring them warm to street in their bright color tubs wrapped in all sorts of different kitchen towels – she had a smile for Max that lit up the street!!  Farther down – 3 onions and a bunch of cilantro = 15 quetzals ($1.85) – walked down to the fish market – right on the river – all of the fishermen have their catch in coolers –soaked in cold fresh river water  - we choose 1.5 lbs of fresh shrimp – heads, eyes, tail and pinchers = 52 quetzals ($6.50) – we thought we were right on target – with some spare change ….so we headed to one of the many little canteras – and quenched our thirst with 2 cerveaces – it put us over the top by a 1 or 2 quetzals….. Oh well – the shoppers deserved it!!

Max is becoming chef extraordinaire – today we had shrimp sautéed with green peppers, onion, cilantro with a little gin to give it flavor…. ummmmmmmm  ,,,, rice and of course the fresh tortes….. fab!! We were both hungry for dessert – so nutella on warm tortes – oh my goodness…  Dale enjoyed the meal – no worries there!!  As for me – dishes have always been one of my favorite tasks…

While we were out shopping, Dale stayed on Companion waiting for the guys to show up to work – I think he just really wanted peace and quiet for a little bit. His list is going down – this morning Max raised Dale up to the top of the mast in the bosom chair to check the anchor and steaming lights…. he had quite a view….. 62 feet up….. And Max got quite a work out….

After all of the “work” today – life is really good for these two guys!

Tomorrow – more on the list…

k