International Dining October 9

 Today is Ben’s Birthday, the gentleman from the Netherlands that Kim befriended in March in Belize. We are going to go to his birthday party this evening… but…..yesterday, we pulled a few more wires and mounted the barometer/clock. We also went swimming at the large swimming pool at the resort next to RAM Marina. We think the 2 couples swimming with us were French, but it is hard to tell, so many languages are spoken here.

At  5:30 last night we followed Erno and Freida who are on a Lagoon 44 “Tara”, (also Dutch, they have been sailing for 4 ½ years) we followed them down the big river a half a mile then up a small river into a mangrove, where Casa Perico is found, a Backpackers Hotel and Restaurant that is built on stilts with long wooden walkways from one area to another, with a central bar. The bar, which is a thatched roof, also had beds with netting on the second floor loft  (rate 16 quetzal’s or $2.00 per night), where mainly German was being spoken.

There was a couple from Corvallis, OR playing cards and eating peanut butter.  The  young man was in the Peace Corps and his friend was doing a teaching exchange. A set of Danish twins who had the longest and most beautiful legs were visiting with 2 guys, who didn’t have a chance, for these gals could have easily been the subjects of a Scandinavian exposé in a Playboy Magazine. Once I found my tongue and returned it to my mouth, Kim and I sat at the bar drinking Victoria (a beer here which is quite good). We are hoping to bring Max to the restaurant when he meets up with us – not only are we sure he will like the food but the atmosphere is great!!! (hopefully the twins will still be there!) In the mix of German, Dutch, Spanish and English we visited with and got to know our new friends.

After a couple of beers and Kim’s local rum and coke light, it was time for dinner. A German/Swiss Smorgasbord prepared by a Mayan women, appeared at 7:15 which was presented on the Bar – Schnitzel (best I ever had), lightly battered eggplant, broiled tomatoes with parmesan cheese, roasted potatoes, and three salads. Two hours later, 7 schnitzels and a tummy full accompanied by a Victoria or two, it was time to struggle into the dinghy for the ride home. With the help of Kim’s headlamp, we made it out of the river and into the pitch black Rio Dulce for the 15-minute ride back to Companion. Kim was almost lost as she tried to step aboard Companion, as one foot found the water instead of the deck, as she laughed, she retreated back to the dinghy for another attempt at a landing.

Life is good as we lowered ourselves into our berth for a good night sleep, knowing that at 4:30, I’d be accompanying Kim to the bano; she just went in the men’s with my protection. 

Dale

Morning Time Bano Oct 7

Ok.. so this might be one of the craziest/weirdest/scariest things that ever happen to me..,, and I mean ever…like most mornings we get up early and realize that it might be only 2 or 3 am – so we try and go back to sleep – which happened today – then at 5 am  -  I was ready to conquer the world….. so Dale in his ultimate patience walked with me to the bathrooms (BANO) in the marina building –

This is the honest to God truth -  he walked into the men’s “bano” and I headed for the ladies – upon opening the door – all I could think of … “is this the end?” – a “gunman” was squatting on the floor of the ladies room  in the dark – with a huge shotgun  – and I mean HUGE….jumped up and was startled…..I felt like… I am not sure what I felt like – anyway … I fell back against the wall – holding my heart to keep it from coming out of my chest –know I said something to Dale – not sure what exactly,  but I obviously scared the gunman….

I don’t know WHO scared WHO the most  - but the poor marina guard (which of course I did not know at the time) was shook up and  “got caught “ sleeping on the job in the ladies bano –  my heart got an extra kick start for my day and got the living “crap” scared out of me as that is why I was headed to that place anyway… Dale like the great guy that he is …… says… “oh, guess that is to be expected… we are being protected!”   I never……… I bet that guard doesn’t hang out in my bano tonight!!  Life on the boat – is still good…  Dale might have to treat me to an ice cream, margarita, or something this afternoon!!


k

Refit is happening - October 6

Dale has a knack for finding “people” – we have Chris who is doing all of the electronics (radar, chart plotter, VHS, GPS, etc) and Dennis who is manufacturing the steel that will ultimately support the solar panels and wind generator.  These two remind me of “long time old friends that get the biggest kick out of each other” you know what I mean - those kind and Dale is fitting right in – both Americans that make their home in the Rio Dulce – so far so good –

Companion is torn up right now –kind of in a state of chaos and in order to keep with my new mantra – “hands busy – mouth shut” – I have polished over half of the stainless steel on the boat – nice and sparkly…. everyone that comes to see what we are doing –(they drive over in their dinghy’s) say they can’t believe this boat is 5 years old – “she is in great shape” – good for us to hear….

The big plus is – now we have surround sound  - using our I-pods – so we have music …..  really nice… Dale is excited about the new chart plotter with Radar, AIS, autopilot all working simutaneoulsy…. he needs a class or two to make it work ….. hopefully when Chris comes back on Friday he can give Dale a lesson….. 

All I can say is thank goodness we made a huge stop at Home Depot before we left – cable ties, duct tape, gorilla glue and goof off – have been placed into immediate service – you just can’t get normal things like that here…. actually Chris and Dennis have been eyeing the cable ties – we might have to trade work for ties!!  Companion is gearing up for something quite grand….

Our New “Wheels” Oct 3

Just like any man – new "big boy toys" seem to show up.  This morning after settling into RAM Marina, Dale got to pick up his new 10 ft. 3 inch West Marine dinghy that was shipped down from LA to Guatemala… the marina manager went with us to the Yamaha waterfront shop and did the “negotiating” for the motor (9.9hp  2 stroke Yamaha) …. gas can … oil, etc – everything you need to run a dinghy!!  We had a ball getting it broken in … this offers us the ability to get off the boat even when we are anchored in a bay …. fabulous lunch at Bruno’s and NFL Football in Spanish!! Couldn't ask for a more perfect Sunday afternoon!!

k

On Our Way - Oct. 1 & 2

Just overcast on Friday morning we woke ready and waiting to shove off; knowing we had a couple of hours of work left to be done we waited patiently – Dale somewhat pacing on the dock – waiting patiently to finish up – waiting patiently to start… then the last task - get a couple of bags of ice and away we went – Dale, Max and I – waving goodbye to Salome – one of the great caretakers of Companion at The Moorings base. 

No fanfare – no fireworks – kind of anti-climatic. just motored into Placencia Lagoon - on our way…. of course we weren’t in the lagoon 15 minutes before Max had his fishing pole in the water - tuna for supper – seared with soy sauce and sesame seeds – really yummy!!  We had a few of hours of sailing (20 nautical miles) to reach the Icosea Bay – where we anchored for the night – a protected spot with a great sunset… early to bed for us as Dale wanted to leave by 6am – which we did!!

Sailing with15 knots of winds – we reefed once – made great time to Livingston, Guatemala. (21 nautical miles)  The customs agent, the administrators for the health department and finance department, the captain of the harbor and our “handler” motored out to greet us – all paperwork was in perfect order – after the handler, Raul, took our passports, got them stamped  - Dale and I went ashore to retrieve them – Max was the watchman on the boat – we started motoring up the Rio Dulce….

Well, I have to tell you, I felt like I was on the African Queen – (yes, Nancy and Doug I did watch the entire film when we returned from Kas) – motoring up the river (8 nautical miles)– one football field wide, anywhere from 20 to 75 feet deep, we were surrounded by sheer limestone cliffs overgrown with lush rainforest growth – bromeliads blooming, howler monkeys squealing, palm plants that were 2 stories tall – the local folks were in hollowed out log canoes – families fishing together – working together – quite a sight – all up and down the river they were tucked into tiny little coves – pulling their nets and lines in….. I just know they were catching their dinner.  Their thatched roof homes sitting on the edge of river – laundry strung from the poles that holds up their roof.  Reminded me a Tibetan prayer flags – how do those women get their white clothes so white in the river water?

Now getting back to the African Queen, I have to be sure and tell Gail Andersen from Australia, Singapore and London (where are you Gail?) that I am using the Aussie hat that she gave me at the Chicago Symposium – it is absolutely perfect here – that hat has gone around the world!!  Thanks friend!!!  Not quite as glamorous as Katherine Hepburn’s bonnet – but totally practical!! 

The mouth of the Rio Dulce opens up to this magnificent lake – the view of the Guatemalan mountains in the background is glorious – only have 7 more miles to go before we land at Bruno’s – hopefully a good shower and dinner await us….  Max is at the helm – Dale enjoying the view – and I needed to get out of the sun…. so here you have it – our first two days at sea!!

k

Wrote this before we actually anchored…

So this world is really so small… we were heading up the river to Bruno’s – still about 2 miles away – and here in a dinghy that is flying right in our direction is our Dutch friend Ben, whom we met in Placencia last March – blowing kisses in my direction  - how could  we not welcome him on board – had a beer or two – made arrangements to enjoy supper with him and Nannie – they have been sailing for 5.5 years – and here we are together… he is one of the rare gems in the sailing community….great conversation and an eagerness to share his knowledge with Dale – all was well last night!!

Ben took to Max – like a fish to water…. loved the fact that a 23 year old is taking the year to learn life skills that cannot be taught in a classroom. Ben volunteered to take Max to the bus stop as we did not have a dinghy yet – so this morning at 7:30 Ben’s “taxi service” arrive– Max will be touring Guatemala Highlands for the next 3 weeks -  we will miss his smile, culinary skills and his "muscle" !! 

Farewell to Belize

Farewell to Belize

Hard to believe that the day has actually arrived that we will shove off for the dream/vision/ and adventure that Dale has sculpted for years.  We will miss our Belizean friends that have taken such great care of our “Companion” – they are celebrating our journey, as they know “Companion” should perform well. 

We are starting the voyage with a sail to the Rio Dulce in Guatemala – it will be a two day trip as we will need to go through immigration in Livingston and then actually motor up the river to Fronteras (25 miles) where we will make our way to RAM Marina.  Max will leave us at this point for 3 weeks of traveling in Guatemala.  Dale and I are on “work detail” – having the solar panels, wind generator, and some carpentry work done – mostly to make our life aboard more comfortable and manageable.  Our boxes should be waiting for us at RAM that we had shipped down from LA (thanks Andy!)  full of supplies – especially peanut butter (Max’s staple while on the big voyage!)  I have stocked the boxes with plenty of small knitting projects (and marine toilet paper – just in case you were wondering)  - in order to keep the hands busy and the mouth closed!!   

Dale is happy that I have not overloaded the boat with “stuff” – the stock of provisons are on board and we still have room for more – which is good – it will be fun to see what the shops in Fronteras have to offer – I am hoping that we can take a day or two and roam the countryside while there. 

Dale and Max are starting to collect rainwater – it is a scientific effort – once a teacher always a teacher….. we will see how the cisterns hold up!!!  It will be interesting and entertaining, that is for sure!!

Max has sorted through all of the fishing lures, put new line on the reels, bought a gaff, and is anxious to catch our first meal – we are kind of counting on it for tomorrow’s supper!!  You should have seen his smile while cleaning the tackle box – priceless!!  :)

To our family and friends – THANKS – just one huge thanks for supporting us and loving us….

Farewell to Belize  …. We begin …..

k

Sign on the dotted line

Today was a big day for Dale... he signed on the dotted line... we can officially take Companion out to sea... she is ours!!!  We - Dale, Max and I are ready to start .....

We celebrated at the Barefoot Bar.... Max and Dale enjoyed the spicy cilantro chicken burrito... and a couple of Belikins.... it was a good night!! And a fabulous sunset!!

Kassie at the Barefoot Bar with us - she is the proprietor and her hotel was our safe haven during the Tropical Storm - Matthew.

All in all it was a good day....