Dale's next born - to be named "Lawrence"?!

Road Town is one hustling and bustling place – especially the TUI Marina – where all Moorings, Sunsail and Footloose charters start and finish plus a menagerie of sailing vessels from the little 25’ boats to the mega cruise ships – great for people watching – many different languages spoken – actually quite romantic… 

I suggested to Dale that he try out his British accent for me…. did not happen!!

Sailing into the dock in Road Town to check into immigrations

We have been on the Moorings dock for the last 5 days and I think Lawrence (the chief electrician) has remedied the problem – we now have a battery charger that does its job … and we can create all sorts of energy and even store it for use down “the road.” 

Dale is thinking about naming our next son, 'Lawrence' because he resolved the mechanical problem and has made Dale so happy…. I know we have Andy for a “son” now…. that’s a good one for me!!   Anyway, Lawrence really took to Dale – their sense of humor and wit matched up pretty quickly and now; Lawrence took Dale on as his "special project” – fixing up the ST60 (fancy name for a wind instrument that talks to NEMA, GPS and other navigational stuff – almost sounds like I know what I am talking about), the “head” now functions properly and the wind energy is flowing into the batteries – Lawrence in my book is a “gem”!  We really lucked out with his expertise and knowledge – a born teacher – he just didn’t know it – but we learned a ton all while he was “just doin’ his job.” Lawrence gave Dale the biggest smile when Dale proclaimed the “son” deal – I just giggled  – no promises from me!

It has not been all work and no play – we have had a couple of fun ventures – Dale especially likes going to the marine hardware shop with all of the gadgets and sailing gear that is available – with everything so easily accessible; compared to what we had in Guatemala – he is like a kid in a candy store.  The Sushi Bar is one of the best we have ever tasted -  spicy tuna – oh so fresh!!  A massage for me this morning was a great treat after polishing all of the stainless in the interior and most of the exterior – Dale surprised me with the appointment – a real treat – and now we just finished up “happy hour” with smoked oysters   ….  as “the sun is setting behind us” we will make our plans for tomorrow….

Dinghy round-up - the Moorings Marina in Road Town


The view from the stern of Companion

If the battery charger continues to function in the proper manner, we will sail back to Norman Island and Bight Bay   for a day before we check out of the BVI’s and into the US Virgins – we just have to snorkel by the caves…. 

and have a cocktail at the infamous “Willie T’s”.

We are looking forward to seeing Emily, Kyle, Sandy and Bryce on Friday – it will be a great Christmas “gift” to have them with us…. 

k

For all knitting friends - the winch works great for winding the wool!

Togetherness…..Dec. 16

We are in the BVI's (British Virgin Islands) - In the Moorings marina this afternoon to get a new battery charger put in (Moorings owed us a new one) and toliet maintenance - we hate to loose the" head" overboard again ..... like we did in 1996….. that was fun?  Right Laura??

Change of plans - “flexibility” is our name and game:  Max was really homesick; he started to think about school, his future- etc.  so he headed back to Seattle a couple of days ago - thank goodness he stayed and helped Dale get this far - being confined to the boat was a little much for him - I think it surprised him also... He did a lot of soul searching, just like the majority of us – never really sure where life will take us..... Max, your presence, culinary skills, muscle and dreds will be missed….. anyway, we will continue on as planned and after a couple of months - will re-evaluate on how we are doing and what the plan of attack will be....right now we made reservations for the boat in June to be hauled out in Curacao for the hurricane season - but that can be changed with no problems.  

 Dale is a patient guy and will help me learn “the ropes!”  (especially all of the knots !!! )  Teach as we go – one of my major hurdles will be to learn “the man overboard drill!” – so I can save the guy I love!!  That will happen next week in Great Bay off of Peter Island.

 Anyway, we will be anchored out in that little bay outside of Road Town, Tortola (no internet for 6 days) - it is lovely here - nice and warm in the day - cools off in the evening... we provisioned enough for 5/6 days - and will head to St. Thomas, arriving there for sure on the 23 - but hopefully we can go in a day earlier - to get ready for Em and her gang.. Snorkeling over by Norman Island is on the agenda -

 I cleaned the cabins for the last couple of days - Companion looks nice and shiny - going to go over to "town" and get some Christmas lights so we can "decorate" - I need to look festive!

Major thanks has to go to Mike and Max for all of their help and support for the last 45 days (1800 nautical miles)  – without their help, Companion would have struggled more to make it to the Caribbean – all of the long hours, lack of sleep,  the waves, wind and unpredictable timing of boating events – we appreciate it gentlemen – more than you will ever know…. Hope you realize how grateful we are… as Mike said, “Mission Accomplished!”  Thank you!!

Captain's note - With 15 knot winds in Road Town today, we left one Marina just missing a Piling - since we were in a 25 foot space between two pilings and wind was on our beam (side) and Companion is 20 feet wide. Then to Moorings to fit into another 25 foot space. But Kim did a great job moving dinghy, fenders and throwing lines. We are currently enjoying a Red Stripe and have not yet seen a Mooring's mechanic at 7 PM. We are also glad that our boat was in Belize, because the number of bumps and scratches due to the limited space and lack of care that is seemingly taken here.  

Night Watch Finesse - Nov. 13

 37 days since the guys left the dock in Rio Fronteras Guatemala – just being back with them for the last week – I have been able to witness the night rotation – the hours between 6 pm and 6 am – it is a unique time to be on the open sea – I am sure more for them then for me – as they have gone over 1800 nautical miles already.  (Me – only 301) – but to see how they are organized and communicate in the wee hours is special.  Dale 6pm – 11:00pm, Max 11:00pm – 2:30am, Mike 2:30am – 6:00am.  The little bit that is spoken between those hours and all that is communicated …short and sweet because sleep calls each of them at the end of their shift. Dale gives Max his report, Max to Mike and Mike to Dale – any help needed they are there for each other. It is reassuring for this “newbie sailor” to have the comfort of this rotation under control, relaxed and organized.

It is with grace and finesse that this rotation happens – each sailor being responsible and ready for action.   Plus I think they all like to snack at their shift and check out the frig accordingly!!

After they all have had a bit of recoup time in the morning – we hear about the shooting stars, the star dust that they leave behind, satellites that scan the sky, the large containers ships that pass in the distance, the islands and towns that are on the shoreline, buoys that are unmarked that pop up out of no where … just the everyday “things” that happen at sea - in the dark. Right now the moon is up at 11am and down about 11pm – so no help from her – BUT the stars are amazing and so bright – almost feels like we should be able to touch them – so close. 

k

CAPTAIN’S UPDATE  - DAY 39  Nov 14

Today, we are on a dock in Road Town BVI; it is so great to be here and so different. Before today we saw about 10 private yachts at sea, and at the Bight Bay on Norman Island there were 30 yachts in one location. We arrived in the BVI yesterday at about 3 PM and since Norman Island is the furthest southwest Island of the BVI, we anchored there for the night. Mike and Max enjoyed a little snorkeling, and then they were off to the Willie T. a floating bar. We had journeyed 300 nautical miles since Casa de Campo in the Dominican Republic. Three nights, but with calm seas, so sailing was minimal. Most of this journey we could see land since we followed the south coast of Puerto Rico, which made Kim very happy.  Again we had some engine issues as the port engine’s belt was whining so Mike and I tightened it till it was back to a pleasant purr. The starboard engine had the alternator support bracket break so it wasn’t useable, until I had it fixed today. I now have a good feeling about the engines. Immigration and Customs were easy in Road Town, and we motored over to Mooring's base to get a few parts (cabinet latches, pulley block for the Main Sheet and oil filter). Tomorrow, we will shop for provisions and do some laundry, and Kim has started her cleaning and organizing mode so the boat will be ship shape for when guests start arriving. We will be in the British Virgin Islands for about a week, then to the US Virgin Islands to have Christmas with Emily and Kyle’s family.

Photos along the way - Honduras to Dominican Republic

Max got the first big catch between Honduras and Jamaica.

Montego Bay Yacht Club Jamaica - 4 days and some great food!

Casa de Campa Marina near La Romona, Dominican Republic - 7 days - had to wait for parts - picked up Kim in Santo Domingo - great place to have to wait .

Touring at the Italian Village in Casa de Campa - lovely - 70,000 acres in this campus. Marina, homes (villas and mansions), 3 golf courses, polo fields, white sand beaches, shopping and the staff is so customer orientated - a special treat.

Hand rolled cigars - every tobacco leaf run thru the press

4000 employees in the 8 hour shift - probably 25 steps and months and months of prep before the cigar is perfected and ready to be smoked

Final touch - the last wrap of a tobacco leaf before it goes into the humidifier for 3 months and then individually wrapped with the cigar band and cellophane wrap - we appreciated all of the labor for about 1 hour of satisfaction.... unbelievable.

Kim doing wash and getting a cardio workout - wash water - stomp - first rinse - stomp - second rinse - double stomp and hang to dry.... she will appreciate a washer and dryer once she gets home.....

Tomorrow will be our last day at Casa de Campa - marina mechanic will help Dale install new water pump, Kim and Max to provision, and Mike oversees and checks weather - so we will be ready to sail another 250 miles to get to the British Virgin Islands - then we can snorkel, relax and have another tropical drink!

Kim has rejoined the Journey Dec. 7

It was great picking up Kim from Santo Domingo airport yesterday. Today, the boat was more organized and we had placemats at dinner. It's the little touches that make a difference (okay I might not mean that, but it is great having Kim with us).

Today, we ventured to a archeological museum on the histroy of the island, and toured this amazing facility here at Casa de Campa. Then went to the largest hand rolled cigar factroy in the world. Four thousand employees per day in an 8nour shift, making 800,000 to a million cigars per week. Nothing was automated! Plus the quality control, aging the tobacco, and process was amazing.I now know why some cigars are very expensive. We have a few celebratory cigars to be broken out once we reach the Virgin Islands.

In regard to Companion, a rewelded block fastener was reattached to the boom so the main sheet is functioning again. Companion has a new American Flag since the old one was extremely tattered and had a few rips with it's contact with the wind generator. We will attempt to keep wind generator from the flag from now on. We hope that the Volvo water pump will arrive tomorrow so we can be on our way to the Virgin Islands by this weekend.

Now a little side note from "the wife":  I am glad to be back on Companion - she is in good shape - the guys took great care of her with all of their passages - Dale is right - she did and will be getting some more personal touches - I can hardly wait to break out the Holiday decor!!  (especially since I was the decorating elf in every house that I stayed in, in the last month!)

Life is good and actually a little chilly tonight - 88 today and now in low 70's -

Slow Go to Puerto Rico 12-4

Today, we left for Puerto Rico, but an hour out of port Companion’s starboard engine failed (oil in the bilge and smoke). So we came back to Casa de Campa – a port on the south east side of Dominican Republic. Casa de Campa is a GaZillion dollar port with mega yachts and little tender dinghies that lead you in and out of the Marina. Yesterday, we had new oil filters, oil and fuel filters replaced, and they found the fresh water pump was bad on one of the engines, but still operational. Ship yard didn’t have part so decided to get to Puerto Rico and get part when we met Kim. Did the custom and navy check out. The Dominican Republic has been the worst in regard to extra fees that need to be paid to the government officials. EVERYONE wants an American $20, so fees were to be $63 to Customs and $20 X 2 to Navy for Sailing and exit documentation, but it has been just over $200. So here I sit on a Saturday afternoon updating the blog, because it will be Monday before they can look at the engine.

                I need to catch you up on our journey from Jamaica. Again on Nov. 17 we arrived in Montego Bay Jamaica. We stayed at the Montego Bay Yacht Club for 3 nights, met with 8 immigration, custom and other officials (no exchange of money, just a lot of time spent waiting for officials to arrive). We then were going to travel east on the north shore but winds were blowing at 22-28 knots in our face and after three tacks and a net gain of 4 nautical miles the choice was either beat our brains out tacking, go back to the harbor, or turn around and do a counter clockwise trek around Jamaica (which we did). Anchored that night in Negro Point on west side of island, and then onto Kingston, Port Royal Jamaica (during pirate time the port of Captain Morgan). Today it is very much run down, and Kingston is not much with lots of poverty and crime.   

                We left Port Royal at noon Nov. 24, after checking out (4 officials, but again no extra money paid). From Nov. 24 to Nov. 30 we sailed the south shore of Hispaniola (combined countries of Haiti and Dominican Republic). Again we had mainly winds in our face, so it was hard sailing so we averaged just less than 100 nautical miles a day. On the first day out at about 10 O’clock a storm came up and even though we had the main reefed a block on the traveler failed so we had to bring down the Main Sail, so we sailed mainly with just the jib and motors .  So it has been probably more work and less relaxed than I thought it would be, but we are making our way to the Islands where the winds will be on our beam and much easier to sail, plus anchorages most every night. But to get there has been difficult, but Mike and Max have been outstanding. As long as I keep the supply of Rum and Cerveza (beer) available, I think we will make it.

                We are about 240 miles from St. Thomas and the American Virgin Islands so we hope mid week we can finish our journey toward the islands.  Hopefully, I can meet up with Kim, either having her fly here, or at the end of the week in Ponce, Puerto Rico. We have travelled approximately 1590 nautical miles and left Rio Dulce a little less than a month ago. Max has done a great job, feeding the crew and he is becoming quite a wiz at meals with the pressure cooker. I'm sure someday you might be able to purchase his sailors cookbook. The weather here is in the low 80's, with winds today out of the north.

A little frustrated, in paradise - Dale

#2 Update ...... from the wife

Captain Dale and Crew just reported in - a nice treat for me on a rainy Seattle afternoon - 


Companion has  already sailed over 1200 nautical miles in the last 3 weeks.  They are about a 20 hour sail from the pennisula that divides Haiti and the Dominican Republic.  They have been sailing since Wednesday - so I am sure they are ready to put an anchor down and get a little rest in the DR.  A part broke that controls the main sail so the guys are motoring with the jib up, so it is slow going.  They will continue sailing with the jib till Companion reaches Tortola - there will be a marina there that can fix it.  The guys have put all of their engineering skills to task - but with limited tools and parts they will be patient and just plug along.


I am now planning on meeting them on Monday, Dec 6 in Ponce, Puerto Rico ... "Flexibility" is my middle name. And thank goodness for great family and friends who provide me shelter and food.


  

THE JOURNEY HAS BEGUN 11/17/10

Sail Date #11 of the Sailing Vessel Companion on it’s journey to see new worlds, and get this boat to LaConner. It is 6:30 AM Central Time, but I think we are now on Eastern Time, but time doesn’t matter as much as distance. We are currently about 90 nautical miles from our waypoint - a spot on a chart that we hope to get to. And as Max at the helm stares at the chartplotter and wonders how much VMG, Velocity Made Good that we are making on this tack. He also has a large tanker overlaid on the chartplotter as a target showing it is only a nautical mile away, but moving away at a right angle. I am typing while standing at the Control Panel letting my legs move to the oscillation of the boat.

Two days ago I wrote: It is day 9 of our voyage. We started with a small step of motoring down the Rio Dulce to Texan Bay about 12 Nautical miles away from Rio Dulce, for your information a Nautical Mile is 1.15 miles and equals one minute of latitude on the line of longitude. Monday the eighth we checked out of Guatemala in Livingston, and then it was our first night sail on Companion to Utila Honduras. Mainly motoring because the winds were so light, but the ocean swells were about 3 feet about 50 yards apart. When my watch started at 7 pm, then we entered what I thought was a little squall. Winds picked up and seas became confused, wind from the squall mixing with sea swells produced a very rough sea, but we put up the jib to help stabilize the boat. The boat started slapping down hard with each wave and some banging of the sea under the bridgedeck. To say the least an uncomfortable ride. At the end of my watch at 11:00 Max took over, but not much had changed. We still had weird seas with 17-20 knots of wind, which changed as the squall moved, plus we had some ship traffic into and out of the Port of Cortez. The radar and AIS identified most of these. Well to say the least it was a long night. We arrived at Utila, an Island off Honduras, at about 1 PM and checked in with immigrations. Five dollars per person and a ten-dollar fee to the Port Captain, who used an old manual typewriter to fill out his form and we were cleared into Honduras with a 3 month visa. After a burger in town it was early to bed.

The next day, we sailed to Roatan, another island off of Honduras; these islands are called the Gulf Islands, for they are in the Gulf of Honduras. After about 2 hours the wind died, and after I waited an hour hoping they would build, we turned the motor on, using one motor at a time to save fuel. After a quick buzz around Coxen Bay, the main town near the airport, and not finding any yachts anchored we headed the 6 knots to French Harbour, which has more Shrimping Boats than any other port in the Caribbean.  Anchored near a catamaran, where the couple from Colorado has been waiting 6 months for a weather window to Panama (6 months!). Checking out of Honduras, Immigrations took 2 days (but that’s another story) and on Nov. 13 we had our weather window to Jamaica (Really - we checked some satellite weather and an email from Emily and the consensus was “okay let’s go”.

We have been on a close haul tack from Nov. 13 at 6 AM to today Nov. 17. We have sailed (no motors about 45% of the time, with speeds to 8.8 knots, with apparent winds of 12 – 21 knots) Hybrid sailed (one motor on so we can stay closer to the winds about 40% of the time) and have motored (mainly one engine on 15% of the time.).

Night sailing has been interesting. I have the first watch from about 6 PM to 11:00 PM and always something different happens. First night a squall of 27 knots winds hit us, where we had to double reef the single reefed main. Max did a great job of lowing the main in those conditions. Second night another squall, and third some weird winds, but later stars were amazing. And last night a big pinkish, purplish blob tried to eat the vessel. Well not literally, but storms show up on the radar as these vivid, animated images and last night there was a growing blob with fire (lightning) in it’s fists. I tried to maneuver around it, but it found us. So again all hands on deck (I want to make sure my crew gets the full experience), we managed to sail through a smaller part of the blob and felt some winds from this storm. But no lightning hit us, nor winds blew us down so all is well, still trying to make VMG. (Today on NOAA site, that purple blob might of been the start of a small depression above Honduras)

         We do know the RUM will taste great in Jamaica! And it does, we arrived in Montego Bay at 10:00 AM Eastern Time. Yesterday, late afternoon, we hit another squall which topped out at 38 knot winds and very large ocean swells, but SV Companion weathered that storm well. Well I think it is time for a Red Stripe, I already had my hour shower.

We will be in Jamaica for about 5 days.

Captain Dale

Some stats for the voyage - French Harbour, Honduras to Montego Bay, Jamaica 510 nautical mile as crow flies, We traveled 585 nm, in 5 days 5 hours and 40 minutes, We averaged 4.66 knots and a little over 110 nautical miles a day, Winds were from 6 to 38 knots, waves from 2 feet to ocean swells of 8 to 10 feet. All sailing was close haul between 40˚ to 70˚ to the apparent winds with a top speed a near 9 knots. Max caught 3 small tuna and a 35 lb Wahoo which has fed us for 3 meals and we have 5 more in the freezer. 

So if this doesn't sound like fun I don't know what does, so make a point of joining us!!

Update ... from the wife

Nov 6 - Captain Dale, Captain Mike and Max started their voyage - sailing from Guatemala to the Isle of Roatan was little over 30 hours - they had some “wave” action and were tired when they arrived - but happy to have “officially” started.  The guys rested for a couple of days - provisioned and on Nov 13 headed toward Jamaica, knowing that it might take 7 days or so.  I just got a “text” this afternoon and they are over half way there and doing great … especially since Max got his first big “catch” - a 30 +lb Wahoo - so a great dinner and “meat” in the freezer.  That makes all the “crew” content!

Capt. Mike is in “charge” of keeping the "wives" updated - so we have gotten a few texts via satellite phone - just knowing that they are safe makes "happy wives!"  Glori and I are enjoying sharing this adventure together.

Mike reported that the winds are favorable for good sailing and I can only imagine that Dale is enjoying that - speculating that the motor is not running constantly and they are conserving diesel.  Plus the lack of motor noise is pleasant.

As far as what I have been up to - November 3 - I stayed in a cute little hotel in San Pedro Sula - being the only non Spanish speaking person there - (I have vowed to learn the language - got a beginning Spanish tape!) I just “holed” up in my room, went to the airport early and caught the first flight to Dallas - Paula was waiting for me!!!  Enjoyed a few days in Shreveport, regrouped and headed up to the northwest - staying with Glori  - my heart was yearning to see “our girls” - found a last minute “deal” to LA - called Em at 6 am on Thursday to see if she wanted to go surprise Danylle on Friday morning - Andy was “in” on the surprise - I got such a kick seeing Danylle’s expression as she walked into their “place”, and there we were….I love being the “surpriser!”  We had a great 32 hours in LA - back to Seattle - up to Anacortes to retrieve my car,  back to Seattle and 30 hours later relaxing in Bainbridge with Laura and Brian. 

Dale is planning on “calling” me tomorrow - a short conversation which will be okay - just gives us confirmation that all is well.

I am really proud of Dale as he planned, organized and worked really hard for the last 6 months preparing himself as well as Companion for this voyage.  When I left him on November 3 he was calm, anxious yet peaceful - did my heart good to see him in his element and fulfilling his dream!!

Life is really good.

k

Off the Docks!

Today, we let go of the lines at RAM Marina, fueled (71 gallons of diesel, at about $3.20 a gallon) and anchored. It feels good away from the dock. I did take a shower, just before we left, don’t want to use our precious water for that.  Went to a forum on the Bay Islands, Honduras, our next port of entry, and the trip to Panama. Picked up a Honduran flag at the swap gathering as Mike and Max did some final provisioning. Now, it is growing dark and Max is in the kitchen preparing some creation.

Below is a picture of the solar/wind mount and equipment. The solar panels sit on the horizontal crossbars.

Hopefully, I can update this blog next time I have internet.

A Typical Day in the Rio Dulce, Guatemala

It has been a month since we have been at Rio Dulce and some days have been extremely busy and others very slow.

At about 6 AM we wake, which is okay because we went to bed by 9 PM (Sailors Midnight). Hot water is on, and poured into Starbuck’s French Press. Most days, Max and Dale are off to the shower, often one of many showers for the day. At 7:30, the Rio Dulce Cruiser’s Net (a VHF broadcast on Channel 69) starts to fill our day with the days events: Calls for Emergency Traffic, weather, Restaurant specials and prices for the day always with a reminder that HAPPY HOUR starts at 1 PM, New Arrivals or boats leaving, Boat to Boat contacts, Information offered or needed, Treasures of the Bilge: buy- sell - or trade. This lasts about 20 minutes.

After breakfast, we often waited for Dennis, our solar/wind generator mount man. We met him our second day at RAM Marina, where he designed an interesting mount for the solar and wind. While Chris, the electronic and installation guy, we saw for 3 days straight; Dennis would periodically appear, but land or sea with news of his difficult time getting materials or to measure again. The other mornings would be spent cleaning, polishing, pulling wires, installing some equipment (inverter, salt-water pump, motor mount), or just reorganizing things.

After a lunch that often included guacamole, Kim is getting very good at preparing it, we would go to the pool at the hotel nest to the nearby marina, and read, or just sit on the boat and read. Periodically, we would check emails, weather, and facebook.  Kim would do laundry about once a week, which took most of the day because the dryer at the Marina is almost worthless (and the humidity here doesn’t help). Max and Kim or often just Max would go into town to get fresh vegetables and sometimes shrimp.

We know when it is 4:30, because the white ibis return to an island in the river just about a block from the boat. They return in groups of 10 to 30 and by 5 PM the three trees on the island are covered with thousands of white spots, almost like a Kimberly decorated Christmas tree. For dinner Max would stir-fry some vegetables with an experimental sauce that Kim and him would talk about and serve it over rice, or spaghetti.  Most meals are great success. Then some more internet, reading, or a few games of Rummikub, while other nights, we’d eat at one of the many restaurants. So that’s been our days.

But yesterday was one of the busy days, because our solar/wind generator mount arrived. I now understand why it took so long, because it isn’t a mount; it’s a piece of ART (we hope functional art). And today Nov. 3, Kim and Max headed for San Pedro, Honduras to pick up Mike and leave Kim at a hotel because she flies out tomorrow. 

Overwelmed and Overserved Oct 25

Well, we decided to get out of the Marina and Rio Dulce on Monday and see some of the sites. Max convinced us to travel like college kids, so we walked to the entrance of RAM Marina and flagged down a minibus; it was a beat up 12-passenger van with luggage rack on top, and safety poles inside to hang onto. We started with about 15 people but by the time we reach Morales we numbered 23 inside 3 hanging outside from the open side door, with 1 on top. We paid Gringo price, which was 10Q or $1.25 for that leg of the trip.  Kim enjoyed the countryside, with rolling hills, lots of farms and ranches with cattle. From Morales another minibus, but Kim and I got the honor seats, up front with the driver, which can be a little scary because there you actually see how close to death you come each time they pass the large trucks with little regard for oncoming traffic.

An hour and a half, we arrived at Quirigua, (a Mayan Ruin opened in 1987) City of Stelae pronounced “KittyWa.” This site is said to be the best for the carved stelaes, (which it was) fifteen to twenty foot massive stones carved pillars, with calendars, stories and faces on 4 sides, dating between 730 -800 ad. There were about 15 of these stone monuments each under a thatched canopy for protection. These carvings, which depict eight different rulers and describe their reign, are situated in an open plaza, which leads to the Acropolis with a Game Ball Plaza and quarters for the rulers. The carvings were overwhelming with the detail and size of them.

After two and a half hours at the site, which we shared with about ten tourists, we boarded a bus to the nearby town for lunch. After lunch it was back on a big bus that was going toward Rio Dulce. This bus took a little longer, not because the driver was safer, he wasn’t. Kim was amazed he could drive at all considering the cataracts that he obviously had. But he took a 45-minute break half way to Rio Dulce. I am sure he was a “union driver.”

When we got back to Companion – we got a big “wave” from Ben and Nonnie  (they came back up the river because of Richard) and quickly took our dinghy over to Dual Dragons.  We helped them take some of the “load off” their boat – consuming their  Victoria’s. (Guatemalan beer) A few hours later and a lot of talk about the boating life philosophy and different anchorages, we left their boat feeling really good but nostalgic as we knew that they were leaving again in the morning.  Hope Ben’s head didn’t hurt as bad as mine, just a little over-served! (just me and Max – not Kim)  Thankfully we do not do this often!

All in all it was a really great day and felt great not to be tearing the boat apart, waiting for workmen, scrubbing, or cleaning.  That can wait for tomorrow.

Dale

Going to the Market

“To the market we shall go”… Max has become my personal dinghy chauffer – we have it down pat – especially after the first docking where he saved my butt as I slipped into the water – my foot didn’t hit the dock just ended up in the drink… and all he said was “Hold on Aunt Kim – I will get you.” – which he did…. what a gentleman!!! 

We go to market almost daily– which is the main street in Fronteras – it is filled with loads of local people selling their wares… fruit, vegetables, tortas, plastic containers of every color and size – the Mayan people are beautiful with their colorful fabrics, larger than life cowboy hats, and their smiles.  We are getting to recognize some of the faces, which is lovely.

Today Max and I went to get our supper items and extra provisions – we wanted to see how much we could buy for 100 quetzals ($12.50) – so to our favorite veg market – 4 avocadoes, 6 tomatoes, 1 lb of potatoes, 1 med cabbage, 5 beets, 1 lb. of dried black beans, 3 sweet peppers, 1 cucumber = 20 quetzals ($2.50)…. next stop 21 tortes = 8 quetzals ($1) – you should have seen the little old woman who sold us them – they bring them warm to street in their bright color tubs wrapped in all sorts of different kitchen towels – she had a smile for Max that lit up the street!!  Farther down – 3 onions and a bunch of cilantro = 15 quetzals ($1.85) – walked down to the fish market – right on the river – all of the fishermen have their catch in coolers –soaked in cold fresh river water  - we choose 1.5 lbs of fresh shrimp – heads, eyes, tail and pinchers = 52 quetzals ($6.50) – we thought we were right on target – with some spare change ….so we headed to one of the many little canteras – and quenched our thirst with 2 cerveaces – it put us over the top by a 1 or 2 quetzals….. Oh well – the shoppers deserved it!!

Max is becoming chef extraordinaire – today we had shrimp sautéed with green peppers, onion, cilantro with a little gin to give it flavor…. ummmmmmmm  ,,,, rice and of course the fresh tortes….. fab!! We were both hungry for dessert – so nutella on warm tortes – oh my goodness…  Dale enjoyed the meal – no worries there!!  As for me – dishes have always been one of my favorite tasks…

While we were out shopping, Dale stayed on Companion waiting for the guys to show up to work – I think he just really wanted peace and quiet for a little bit. His list is going down – this morning Max raised Dale up to the top of the mast in the bosom chair to check the anchor and steaming lights…. he had quite a view….. 62 feet up….. And Max got quite a work out….

After all of the “work” today – life is really good for these two guys!

Tomorrow – more on the list…

k

Sailing Clockwise is Better Oct 17

 Yesterday, we picked up Max (who had spent 2 weeks exploring Guatemala) in the dinghy after he took a 5 hour bus ride from Guatemala City.  It is great having him back…. taught him to play Rummicube, we are now in the cruising mode.

We had some fiberglass work done to strengthen the floor under the water tanks (prevent little leaks there) and also some work done to strengthen under the forward berths. Measured and marked the anchor chain today (color coded for Kim – you know she is a visual person)  and put up her clothesline up under the hard bimini.

We are ready to get this boat back in order – because of all of the work being done we are in a bit of a mess – so tomorrow Kim, Max and I will scrub the decks, put back the anchor chains, get reorganized – it really is coming along… it will be great to share this with you…. when are you joining us?

Yesterday, we had Ben (our Dutch friend) over to give us some advice about sailing the Caribbean Islands – what to see and not miss …. 

Ben and Nannie (pronounced Nonnie)

he looked over my plan and then he called me “STTUUPID” that’s Dutch for stupid, “BE CAUSSE” I was going the wrong way “Always clockwise down the islands” / “go with the winds not against” … "make it easier for yourselves and the boat"…..and basically we need to  make time to explore.  


So Kim, Max and I had a “Pow Wow”; talked about the possibility of spending 8 months in the Caribbean, leave the boat in a hurricane hole for the summer/fall and then take a longer 8 months to go up the west coast. The secret vote was unanimous. So below is the new itinerary!!

NEW ITINERARY FOR SV COMPANION  (because I was “Sttuupid”  that’s Dutch for Stupid)

EIGHT MONTH CARIBBEAN – Late 2010 to Late Spring 2011

Oct 1 to 28          Rio Dulce Guatemala

Nov 1 to 10        Honduras / Roatan                        passage to Jamaica

Nov 14 to 22      Jamaica                                           passage to Puerto Rico   

Nov 25 to Dec 3 Puerto Rico  pickup Kim              passage to Virgin Islands

Dec 4 to  14        Virgin Islands                                  US & British  

Dec 15  to 31      Tortola and St. John's                   Emily / Kyle

Jan 1 to 15          Antigua

Jan 15 to 30        Guadeloupe or Antigua                 Danylle/Andy and 
                                                                                                 Portland Friends

Feb 1 to 12          Guadeloupe or Antigua                 Laura & Brian Alonso

Feb 15 to Mar 10 Dominica/Martinique

Mar 12 to 30         St. Lucia                                          Chuck Novak

Apr 1 to May10    St. Vincent and Grenadines

May 10 to 25        Los Roques / Tortuga w/ Johnny Depp 


May 25 to Jun10  Bonaire then Curacao Island 
                                   Companion rests there for the hurricane season

EIGHT MONTH VOYAGE – Late 2011 to Summer 2012

Oct. 15  to Nov. 15   Back to Companion voyage to Bonaire, Curacao, Aruba

Nov. 15 to Jan 1        Panama 

Jan  1 to 31               Central America (Costa Rica-Nicaragua)

Feb 1 to 28                Southern Mexico to Baja

March 1 to 20            La Paz Mexico, Baja

Apr 1 to 30                San Diego, LA

May 5 to 20               San Fransico

June 15 Arrive          LaConner WA     
                                                       Party  - June 20 Celebrating Max’s 25^th B-Day


Aug sometime our Dutch friends will arrive in Anacortes via Hawaii, AK and Canada.......

We are excited about the new plan ..... watch out Caribbean Isles - here we come!!!  WE WANT YOU TO JOIN US...

Dale (mostly with a little bit of help from k)

We waved goodbye for now to our Dutch friends - they are sailing to Cape Canaveral, Florida for a month to have to get new boat engines.... see you in St. Lucia!!!

Traditions Continue – Americano/Glen Ellyn style... Oct. 13

Today was a good day… almost like being in Glen Ellyn… we started the day early – we were having “company” for dinner – Dale is the best husband – knowing I needed to have everything clean and spiffy – (just like home) and since we now have a hose and nozzle– we scrubbed the decks starting at 6:30 am – before it could get to hot – done by 8:30 – all white and clean our decks are…… off to the fish market – shrimp is on the menu  - you should see how huge they are – most likely caught in the wee hours of dawn for us….

fresh vegetables and fruit at the little stands on the main street of Fronteras  (as soon as Max is back we will have photos on the blog – I forgot how to insert them) fresh bread from the little bakery that we have been going to and of course Dale took one of the guys from the marina to the liquor store to get the “Guatemalan” price for a case of beer – everything in order – it feels right…..

We even had time just to sit today and enjoy “Companion” – which was rare this past couple of weeks with all of the work being done… it feels right …. it feels good….

So just like most big occasions we have had in Glen Ellyn –Picnic Shrimp Americano - is what we prepared – only these shrimp had heads and veins, Dale did a good job of cleaning and deveining collecting some heads as bait for Max– it was great to share the galley with him – he is a master at the garlic press – I was his “sue chef” – everything ready for him to do his magic…. our Dutch friends, Ben, Nonnie, Frieda and Erno – were truly wonderful guests  - enjoying the moment with us – “our first dinner party” … nothing less than perfection – thanks to Dale’s fine skill with the broiler in our galley!!

Dishes are done – Dale is asleep and I am to geared up to relax…. just like normal…

all is well in the Rio Dulce tonight…

One more thing – we got word from Max this afternoon and he is coming to Rio Dulce on Saturday – it will be great to share all that has happened on Companion while he has been touring – we are happy that is coming back early and  hoping that he will go with us for a day’s tour to a Mayan site  - as we need an interpreter – and to do a little touring ourselves!! 

It is good to feel like Companion is home!!

k 

SV Companion is changing Oct.12, 2010

As Hurricane Paula heads to the north, we were supposed to get some rain, but woke to blue skies, and heat, today up to 98. We went into town to get some final supplies for the salt water system, try to get a key copied, and on the hunt for a fan for the outside cockpit. So 2 ½ hours of hunting and brunch at Bruno’s, I got breakfast (2 eggs, hashbrown, toast, and fruit) and Kim chicken wings and a bowl of House Fries that could of feed 4 (she didn’t finish them all) with 2 bottles of aqua for $12.

So Companion is getting in shape. We have a clock/barometer mounted just inside door, Radar on mast which appears on chartplotter (wind instruments still not talking to chartplotter), depth, autopilot talking to chartplotter,and so is new AIS VHF radio, with a remote radio at helm. Found the USB connection for radio, so Kim is happy with Jazz from Mike, Danylle’s audio library, and oldies from Tom and LeeAnn on the iTouch.  Kim and I have pulled lots of wires; we have inverter to make AC from DC that has a separate remote at electrical panel, cables pulled and ready for solar and wind energy after they are mounted. Salt water system is in and working, with water from bathroom seacock (why do so many sailing terms have cock in them), to on-demand pump to washdown near anchor (still need to attach the 25 ft of hose and nozzle, we bought today), and faucet at sink, and second washdown (again 25’ of hose) in cockpit lazerette. Much of the sea water system was designed and executed by Ben (Dutch friend), but final hook-up by Dale. In afternoon, we escaped the heat at the pool next door. We  feel obligated to buy a drink so a margarita and daiquiri (Kim does a different drink each time we go).

New Control Panel

I was extremely concerned that I would be overwhelmed by the refit of Companion, but slowly  I am feeling more confident and I really am getting to know every part of this vessel. Kim is still thinking about where she wants all the stuff and tools and equipment still waiting to be part of the refit are driving her a little crazy. Well, the sun is setting, and a cool breeze is hitting my face as I compose this posting on the front trampoline with a Victoria (beer) in hand. Another good day, well I need to go and lock the engine and dinghy, and bring in the hose.  We hope to have refit pictures soon.


One more item - the spinnaker is ready to go... hoisted up the sock - all we need are the winds!!

Dale