Overwelmed and Overserved Oct 25

Well, we decided to get out of the Marina and Rio Dulce on Monday and see some of the sites. Max convinced us to travel like college kids, so we walked to the entrance of RAM Marina and flagged down a minibus; it was a beat up 12-passenger van with luggage rack on top, and safety poles inside to hang onto. We started with about 15 people but by the time we reach Morales we numbered 23 inside 3 hanging outside from the open side door, with 1 on top. We paid Gringo price, which was 10Q or $1.25 for that leg of the trip.  Kim enjoyed the countryside, with rolling hills, lots of farms and ranches with cattle. From Morales another minibus, but Kim and I got the honor seats, up front with the driver, which can be a little scary because there you actually see how close to death you come each time they pass the large trucks with little regard for oncoming traffic.

An hour and a half, we arrived at Quirigua, (a Mayan Ruin opened in 1987) City of Stelae pronounced “KittyWa.” This site is said to be the best for the carved stelaes, (which it was) fifteen to twenty foot massive stones carved pillars, with calendars, stories and faces on 4 sides, dating between 730 -800 ad. There were about 15 of these stone monuments each under a thatched canopy for protection. These carvings, which depict eight different rulers and describe their reign, are situated in an open plaza, which leads to the Acropolis with a Game Ball Plaza and quarters for the rulers. The carvings were overwhelming with the detail and size of them.

After two and a half hours at the site, which we shared with about ten tourists, we boarded a bus to the nearby town for lunch. After lunch it was back on a big bus that was going toward Rio Dulce. This bus took a little longer, not because the driver was safer, he wasn’t. Kim was amazed he could drive at all considering the cataracts that he obviously had. But he took a 45-minute break half way to Rio Dulce. I am sure he was a “union driver.”

When we got back to Companion – we got a big “wave” from Ben and Nonnie  (they came back up the river because of Richard) and quickly took our dinghy over to Dual Dragons.  We helped them take some of the “load off” their boat – consuming their  Victoria’s. (Guatemalan beer) A few hours later and a lot of talk about the boating life philosophy and different anchorages, we left their boat feeling really good but nostalgic as we knew that they were leaving again in the morning.  Hope Ben’s head didn’t hurt as bad as mine, just a little over-served! (just me and Max – not Kim)  Thankfully we do not do this often!

All in all it was a really great day and felt great not to be tearing the boat apart, waiting for workmen, scrubbing, or cleaning.  That can wait for tomorrow.

Dale

Going to the Market

“To the market we shall go”… Max has become my personal dinghy chauffer – we have it down pat – especially after the first docking where he saved my butt as I slipped into the water – my foot didn’t hit the dock just ended up in the drink… and all he said was “Hold on Aunt Kim – I will get you.” – which he did…. what a gentleman!!! 

We go to market almost daily– which is the main street in Fronteras – it is filled with loads of local people selling their wares… fruit, vegetables, tortas, plastic containers of every color and size – the Mayan people are beautiful with their colorful fabrics, larger than life cowboy hats, and their smiles.  We are getting to recognize some of the faces, which is lovely.

Today Max and I went to get our supper items and extra provisions – we wanted to see how much we could buy for 100 quetzals ($12.50) – so to our favorite veg market – 4 avocadoes, 6 tomatoes, 1 lb of potatoes, 1 med cabbage, 5 beets, 1 lb. of dried black beans, 3 sweet peppers, 1 cucumber = 20 quetzals ($2.50)…. next stop 21 tortes = 8 quetzals ($1) – you should have seen the little old woman who sold us them – they bring them warm to street in their bright color tubs wrapped in all sorts of different kitchen towels – she had a smile for Max that lit up the street!!  Farther down – 3 onions and a bunch of cilantro = 15 quetzals ($1.85) – walked down to the fish market – right on the river – all of the fishermen have their catch in coolers –soaked in cold fresh river water  - we choose 1.5 lbs of fresh shrimp – heads, eyes, tail and pinchers = 52 quetzals ($6.50) – we thought we were right on target – with some spare change ….so we headed to one of the many little canteras – and quenched our thirst with 2 cerveaces – it put us over the top by a 1 or 2 quetzals….. Oh well – the shoppers deserved it!!

Max is becoming chef extraordinaire – today we had shrimp sautéed with green peppers, onion, cilantro with a little gin to give it flavor…. ummmmmmmm  ,,,, rice and of course the fresh tortes….. fab!! We were both hungry for dessert – so nutella on warm tortes – oh my goodness…  Dale enjoyed the meal – no worries there!!  As for me – dishes have always been one of my favorite tasks…

While we were out shopping, Dale stayed on Companion waiting for the guys to show up to work – I think he just really wanted peace and quiet for a little bit. His list is going down – this morning Max raised Dale up to the top of the mast in the bosom chair to check the anchor and steaming lights…. he had quite a view….. 62 feet up….. And Max got quite a work out….

After all of the “work” today – life is really good for these two guys!

Tomorrow – more on the list…

k

Sailing Clockwise is Better Oct 17

 Yesterday, we picked up Max (who had spent 2 weeks exploring Guatemala) in the dinghy after he took a 5 hour bus ride from Guatemala City.  It is great having him back…. taught him to play Rummicube, we are now in the cruising mode.

We had some fiberglass work done to strengthen the floor under the water tanks (prevent little leaks there) and also some work done to strengthen under the forward berths. Measured and marked the anchor chain today (color coded for Kim – you know she is a visual person)  and put up her clothesline up under the hard bimini.

We are ready to get this boat back in order – because of all of the work being done we are in a bit of a mess – so tomorrow Kim, Max and I will scrub the decks, put back the anchor chains, get reorganized – it really is coming along… it will be great to share this with you…. when are you joining us?

Yesterday, we had Ben (our Dutch friend) over to give us some advice about sailing the Caribbean Islands – what to see and not miss …. 

Ben and Nannie (pronounced Nonnie)

he looked over my plan and then he called me “STTUUPID” that’s Dutch for stupid, “BE CAUSSE” I was going the wrong way “Always clockwise down the islands” / “go with the winds not against” … "make it easier for yourselves and the boat"…..and basically we need to  make time to explore.  


So Kim, Max and I had a “Pow Wow”; talked about the possibility of spending 8 months in the Caribbean, leave the boat in a hurricane hole for the summer/fall and then take a longer 8 months to go up the west coast. The secret vote was unanimous. So below is the new itinerary!!

NEW ITINERARY FOR SV COMPANION  (because I was “Sttuupid”  that’s Dutch for Stupid)

EIGHT MONTH CARIBBEAN – Late 2010 to Late Spring 2011

Oct 1 to 28          Rio Dulce Guatemala

Nov 1 to 10        Honduras / Roatan                        passage to Jamaica

Nov 14 to 22      Jamaica                                           passage to Puerto Rico   

Nov 25 to Dec 3 Puerto Rico  pickup Kim              passage to Virgin Islands

Dec 4 to  14        Virgin Islands                                  US & British  

Dec 15  to 31      Tortola and St. John's                   Emily / Kyle

Jan 1 to 15          Antigua

Jan 15 to 30        Guadeloupe or Antigua                 Danylle/Andy and 
                                                                                                 Portland Friends

Feb 1 to 12          Guadeloupe or Antigua                 Laura & Brian Alonso

Feb 15 to Mar 10 Dominica/Martinique

Mar 12 to 30         St. Lucia                                          Chuck Novak

Apr 1 to May10    St. Vincent and Grenadines

May 10 to 25        Los Roques / Tortuga w/ Johnny Depp 


May 25 to Jun10  Bonaire then Curacao Island 
                                   Companion rests there for the hurricane season

EIGHT MONTH VOYAGE – Late 2011 to Summer 2012

Oct. 15  to Nov. 15   Back to Companion voyage to Bonaire, Curacao, Aruba

Nov. 15 to Jan 1        Panama 

Jan  1 to 31               Central America (Costa Rica-Nicaragua)

Feb 1 to 28                Southern Mexico to Baja

March 1 to 20            La Paz Mexico, Baja

Apr 1 to 30                San Diego, LA

May 5 to 20               San Fransico

June 15 Arrive          LaConner WA     
                                                       Party  - June 20 Celebrating Max’s 25^th B-Day


Aug sometime our Dutch friends will arrive in Anacortes via Hawaii, AK and Canada.......

We are excited about the new plan ..... watch out Caribbean Isles - here we come!!!  WE WANT YOU TO JOIN US...

Dale (mostly with a little bit of help from k)

We waved goodbye for now to our Dutch friends - they are sailing to Cape Canaveral, Florida for a month to have to get new boat engines.... see you in St. Lucia!!!

Traditions Continue – Americano/Glen Ellyn style... Oct. 13

Today was a good day… almost like being in Glen Ellyn… we started the day early – we were having “company” for dinner – Dale is the best husband – knowing I needed to have everything clean and spiffy – (just like home) and since we now have a hose and nozzle– we scrubbed the decks starting at 6:30 am – before it could get to hot – done by 8:30 – all white and clean our decks are…… off to the fish market – shrimp is on the menu  - you should see how huge they are – most likely caught in the wee hours of dawn for us….

fresh vegetables and fruit at the little stands on the main street of Fronteras  (as soon as Max is back we will have photos on the blog – I forgot how to insert them) fresh bread from the little bakery that we have been going to and of course Dale took one of the guys from the marina to the liquor store to get the “Guatemalan” price for a case of beer – everything in order – it feels right…..

We even had time just to sit today and enjoy “Companion” – which was rare this past couple of weeks with all of the work being done… it feels right …. it feels good….

So just like most big occasions we have had in Glen Ellyn –Picnic Shrimp Americano - is what we prepared – only these shrimp had heads and veins, Dale did a good job of cleaning and deveining collecting some heads as bait for Max– it was great to share the galley with him – he is a master at the garlic press – I was his “sue chef” – everything ready for him to do his magic…. our Dutch friends, Ben, Nonnie, Frieda and Erno – were truly wonderful guests  - enjoying the moment with us – “our first dinner party” … nothing less than perfection – thanks to Dale’s fine skill with the broiler in our galley!!

Dishes are done – Dale is asleep and I am to geared up to relax…. just like normal…

all is well in the Rio Dulce tonight…

One more thing – we got word from Max this afternoon and he is coming to Rio Dulce on Saturday – it will be great to share all that has happened on Companion while he has been touring – we are happy that is coming back early and  hoping that he will go with us for a day’s tour to a Mayan site  - as we need an interpreter – and to do a little touring ourselves!! 

It is good to feel like Companion is home!!

k 

SV Companion is changing Oct.12, 2010

As Hurricane Paula heads to the north, we were supposed to get some rain, but woke to blue skies, and heat, today up to 98. We went into town to get some final supplies for the salt water system, try to get a key copied, and on the hunt for a fan for the outside cockpit. So 2 ½ hours of hunting and brunch at Bruno’s, I got breakfast (2 eggs, hashbrown, toast, and fruit) and Kim chicken wings and a bowl of House Fries that could of feed 4 (she didn’t finish them all) with 2 bottles of aqua for $12.

So Companion is getting in shape. We have a clock/barometer mounted just inside door, Radar on mast which appears on chartplotter (wind instruments still not talking to chartplotter), depth, autopilot talking to chartplotter,and so is new AIS VHF radio, with a remote radio at helm. Found the USB connection for radio, so Kim is happy with Jazz from Mike, Danylle’s audio library, and oldies from Tom and LeeAnn on the iTouch.  Kim and I have pulled lots of wires; we have inverter to make AC from DC that has a separate remote at electrical panel, cables pulled and ready for solar and wind energy after they are mounted. Salt water system is in and working, with water from bathroom seacock (why do so many sailing terms have cock in them), to on-demand pump to washdown near anchor (still need to attach the 25 ft of hose and nozzle, we bought today), and faucet at sink, and second washdown (again 25’ of hose) in cockpit lazerette. Much of the sea water system was designed and executed by Ben (Dutch friend), but final hook-up by Dale. In afternoon, we escaped the heat at the pool next door. We  feel obligated to buy a drink so a margarita and daiquiri (Kim does a different drink each time we go).

New Control Panel

I was extremely concerned that I would be overwhelmed by the refit of Companion, but slowly  I am feeling more confident and I really am getting to know every part of this vessel. Kim is still thinking about where she wants all the stuff and tools and equipment still waiting to be part of the refit are driving her a little crazy. Well, the sun is setting, and a cool breeze is hitting my face as I compose this posting on the front trampoline with a Victoria (beer) in hand. Another good day, well I need to go and lock the engine and dinghy, and bring in the hose.  We hope to have refit pictures soon.


One more item - the spinnaker is ready to go... hoisted up the sock - all we need are the winds!!

Dale

International Dining October 9

 Today is Ben’s Birthday, the gentleman from the Netherlands that Kim befriended in March in Belize. We are going to go to his birthday party this evening… but…..yesterday, we pulled a few more wires and mounted the barometer/clock. We also went swimming at the large swimming pool at the resort next to RAM Marina. We think the 2 couples swimming with us were French, but it is hard to tell, so many languages are spoken here.

At  5:30 last night we followed Erno and Freida who are on a Lagoon 44 “Tara”, (also Dutch, they have been sailing for 4 ½ years) we followed them down the big river a half a mile then up a small river into a mangrove, where Casa Perico is found, a Backpackers Hotel and Restaurant that is built on stilts with long wooden walkways from one area to another, with a central bar. The bar, which is a thatched roof, also had beds with netting on the second floor loft  (rate 16 quetzal’s or $2.00 per night), where mainly German was being spoken.

There was a couple from Corvallis, OR playing cards and eating peanut butter.  The  young man was in the Peace Corps and his friend was doing a teaching exchange. A set of Danish twins who had the longest and most beautiful legs were visiting with 2 guys, who didn’t have a chance, for these gals could have easily been the subjects of a Scandinavian exposé in a Playboy Magazine. Once I found my tongue and returned it to my mouth, Kim and I sat at the bar drinking Victoria (a beer here which is quite good). We are hoping to bring Max to the restaurant when he meets up with us – not only are we sure he will like the food but the atmosphere is great!!! (hopefully the twins will still be there!) In the mix of German, Dutch, Spanish and English we visited with and got to know our new friends.

After a couple of beers and Kim’s local rum and coke light, it was time for dinner. A German/Swiss Smorgasbord prepared by a Mayan women, appeared at 7:15 which was presented on the Bar – Schnitzel (best I ever had), lightly battered eggplant, broiled tomatoes with parmesan cheese, roasted potatoes, and three salads. Two hours later, 7 schnitzels and a tummy full accompanied by a Victoria or two, it was time to struggle into the dinghy for the ride home. With the help of Kim’s headlamp, we made it out of the river and into the pitch black Rio Dulce for the 15-minute ride back to Companion. Kim was almost lost as she tried to step aboard Companion, as one foot found the water instead of the deck, as she laughed, she retreated back to the dinghy for another attempt at a landing.

Life is good as we lowered ourselves into our berth for a good night sleep, knowing that at 4:30, I’d be accompanying Kim to the bano; she just went in the men’s with my protection. 

Dale

Morning Time Bano Oct 7

Ok.. so this might be one of the craziest/weirdest/scariest things that ever happen to me..,, and I mean ever…like most mornings we get up early and realize that it might be only 2 or 3 am – so we try and go back to sleep – which happened today – then at 5 am  -  I was ready to conquer the world….. so Dale in his ultimate patience walked with me to the bathrooms (BANO) in the marina building –

This is the honest to God truth -  he walked into the men’s “bano” and I headed for the ladies – upon opening the door – all I could think of … “is this the end?” – a “gunman” was squatting on the floor of the ladies room  in the dark – with a huge shotgun  – and I mean HUGE….jumped up and was startled…..I felt like… I am not sure what I felt like – anyway … I fell back against the wall – holding my heart to keep it from coming out of my chest –know I said something to Dale – not sure what exactly,  but I obviously scared the gunman….

I don’t know WHO scared WHO the most  - but the poor marina guard (which of course I did not know at the time) was shook up and  “got caught “ sleeping on the job in the ladies bano –  my heart got an extra kick start for my day and got the living “crap” scared out of me as that is why I was headed to that place anyway… Dale like the great guy that he is …… says… “oh, guess that is to be expected… we are being protected!”   I never……… I bet that guard doesn’t hang out in my bano tonight!!  Life on the boat – is still good…  Dale might have to treat me to an ice cream, margarita, or something this afternoon!!


k

Refit is happening - October 6

Dale has a knack for finding “people” – we have Chris who is doing all of the electronics (radar, chart plotter, VHS, GPS, etc) and Dennis who is manufacturing the steel that will ultimately support the solar panels and wind generator.  These two remind me of “long time old friends that get the biggest kick out of each other” you know what I mean - those kind and Dale is fitting right in – both Americans that make their home in the Rio Dulce – so far so good –

Companion is torn up right now –kind of in a state of chaos and in order to keep with my new mantra – “hands busy – mouth shut” – I have polished over half of the stainless steel on the boat – nice and sparkly…. everyone that comes to see what we are doing –(they drive over in their dinghy’s) say they can’t believe this boat is 5 years old – “she is in great shape” – good for us to hear….

The big plus is – now we have surround sound  - using our I-pods – so we have music …..  really nice… Dale is excited about the new chart plotter with Radar, AIS, autopilot all working simutaneoulsy…. he needs a class or two to make it work ….. hopefully when Chris comes back on Friday he can give Dale a lesson….. 

All I can say is thank goodness we made a huge stop at Home Depot before we left – cable ties, duct tape, gorilla glue and goof off – have been placed into immediate service – you just can’t get normal things like that here…. actually Chris and Dennis have been eyeing the cable ties – we might have to trade work for ties!!  Companion is gearing up for something quite grand….

Our New “Wheels” Oct 3

Just like any man – new "big boy toys" seem to show up.  This morning after settling into RAM Marina, Dale got to pick up his new 10 ft. 3 inch West Marine dinghy that was shipped down from LA to Guatemala… the marina manager went with us to the Yamaha waterfront shop and did the “negotiating” for the motor (9.9hp  2 stroke Yamaha) …. gas can … oil, etc – everything you need to run a dinghy!!  We had a ball getting it broken in … this offers us the ability to get off the boat even when we are anchored in a bay …. fabulous lunch at Bruno’s and NFL Football in Spanish!! Couldn't ask for a more perfect Sunday afternoon!!

k

On Our Way - Oct. 1 & 2

Just overcast on Friday morning we woke ready and waiting to shove off; knowing we had a couple of hours of work left to be done we waited patiently – Dale somewhat pacing on the dock – waiting patiently to finish up – waiting patiently to start… then the last task - get a couple of bags of ice and away we went – Dale, Max and I – waving goodbye to Salome – one of the great caretakers of Companion at The Moorings base. 

No fanfare – no fireworks – kind of anti-climatic. just motored into Placencia Lagoon - on our way…. of course we weren’t in the lagoon 15 minutes before Max had his fishing pole in the water - tuna for supper – seared with soy sauce and sesame seeds – really yummy!!  We had a few of hours of sailing (20 nautical miles) to reach the Icosea Bay – where we anchored for the night – a protected spot with a great sunset… early to bed for us as Dale wanted to leave by 6am – which we did!!

Sailing with15 knots of winds – we reefed once – made great time to Livingston, Guatemala. (21 nautical miles)  The customs agent, the administrators for the health department and finance department, the captain of the harbor and our “handler” motored out to greet us – all paperwork was in perfect order – after the handler, Raul, took our passports, got them stamped  - Dale and I went ashore to retrieve them – Max was the watchman on the boat – we started motoring up the Rio Dulce….

Well, I have to tell you, I felt like I was on the African Queen – (yes, Nancy and Doug I did watch the entire film when we returned from Kas) – motoring up the river (8 nautical miles)– one football field wide, anywhere from 20 to 75 feet deep, we were surrounded by sheer limestone cliffs overgrown with lush rainforest growth – bromeliads blooming, howler monkeys squealing, palm plants that were 2 stories tall – the local folks were in hollowed out log canoes – families fishing together – working together – quite a sight – all up and down the river they were tucked into tiny little coves – pulling their nets and lines in….. I just know they were catching their dinner.  Their thatched roof homes sitting on the edge of river – laundry strung from the poles that holds up their roof.  Reminded me a Tibetan prayer flags – how do those women get their white clothes so white in the river water?

Now getting back to the African Queen, I have to be sure and tell Gail Andersen from Australia, Singapore and London (where are you Gail?) that I am using the Aussie hat that she gave me at the Chicago Symposium – it is absolutely perfect here – that hat has gone around the world!!  Thanks friend!!!  Not quite as glamorous as Katherine Hepburn’s bonnet – but totally practical!! 

The mouth of the Rio Dulce opens up to this magnificent lake – the view of the Guatemalan mountains in the background is glorious – only have 7 more miles to go before we land at Bruno’s – hopefully a good shower and dinner await us….  Max is at the helm – Dale enjoying the view – and I needed to get out of the sun…. so here you have it – our first two days at sea!!

k

Wrote this before we actually anchored…

So this world is really so small… we were heading up the river to Bruno’s – still about 2 miles away – and here in a dinghy that is flying right in our direction is our Dutch friend Ben, whom we met in Placencia last March – blowing kisses in my direction  - how could  we not welcome him on board – had a beer or two – made arrangements to enjoy supper with him and Nannie – they have been sailing for 5.5 years – and here we are together… he is one of the rare gems in the sailing community….great conversation and an eagerness to share his knowledge with Dale – all was well last night!!

Ben took to Max – like a fish to water…. loved the fact that a 23 year old is taking the year to learn life skills that cannot be taught in a classroom. Ben volunteered to take Max to the bus stop as we did not have a dinghy yet – so this morning at 7:30 Ben’s “taxi service” arrive– Max will be touring Guatemala Highlands for the next 3 weeks -  we will miss his smile, culinary skills and his "muscle" !!